The Big Africa Cycle

I have undertaken 2 long distance solo bicycle adventures. Between 2005-2008 I cycled from Japan-UK through 30 countries, and between 2009-2012 I cycled from the UK-South Africa. In total, over 50,000 miles and 60+ countries. Next up: a book about the The Big Africa Cycle.

thebigafricacycle.com

Expedition Yacht sail or motor

Hi,

Looking for information on an expedition yacht (power or sail). 50 to 100 foot with a RIB for filming in Greenland/Iceland. The expedition is a mixture of kayaking and diving around the Greenland Coast.

Our biggest issue is it's fairly last minute. Our original support vessel has had mechanical issues so we're looking for a replacement. The expedition is only 3 weeks around the end of August/beginning of September. Any information gratefully received.

Many thanks,

Alasdair Boden

Has anyone hiked to the Giants Of Manpupuner

I am looking for advice and or guidance toward a possible trip a friend and I are considering in Russia.

I and a friend are looking to travel from mid to end January in 2014 giving aprox' three to three and a half weeks to travel to the famous hidden wonder the Giants of Manpupuner (eg:http://int.rgo.ru/news/the-manpupuner-rock-formations/ ) It is approximately 100km from the nearest settlement and we are planning to hike or ski tour to the location and return. I was wondering if anyone had done this themselves and or is able to provide details of the likely weather conditions present in late january in the area and if reaching the starting location (the nearest town) is a reasonable consideration in this time of year.

Any advice what so ever would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,

Will

Turning back on a mountain, the toughest decision

Turning back on a mountain the toughest decision When you announce to the world you are off to climb a mountain its pretty much assumed that you will summit; not only by the people you tell, but also by yourself.

You certainly depart for your trip with the intention of reaching the top. But what happens when things get tricky and you are faced with the choice is it time to turn back? The wrong decision could cost you your life. Reaching the summit worth dying for? Maisie Hayman talks to Squash Falconer who is no stranger to climbing mountains. In fact shes climbed a few. In 2008 she climbed Cho Oyu, only 600m lower than Mt Everest and bum boarded back down. An interesting achievement that demonstrates Squashs ability to design unique adventures! In 2009 she rode her BMW motorbike to the foot of Mt Blanc, reached the top and leapt off with her paraglider becoming the first British woman to do so.

Then last year she summited Mt Everest where she celebrated her 30th birthday. Not every trip has gone exactly to plan though. Here Squash explains her thoughts on turning back, the time she had to make the call and her surprise reaction to the outcome. How and when did you get into mountaineering? I was 23 when I climbed my first mountain, Aconcagua in Argentina. A group of friends who I did endurance adventure races with were off to climb it and I wanted to go too. So I did! When you first began climbing mountains what were your thoughts on reaching the top?

I knew that making the summit wasn't guaranteed. In fact I knew that often on big mountains the odds are against you and for reasons that you sometimes have no control over like the weather. I also knew there were reasons that I did have control over, like fitness, and so I went in the best shape I could be in for the climb. Looking back even knowing that a summit wasn't a given I did assume I would get there, or rather I didn't spend much time thinking I might not. I was going to climb Aconcagua, there was an itinerary for the climb with several possible summit attempts and Id be back after that, after Id reached the summit. I did reach the summit as I had intended; therefore nothing was learnt about turning back on that trip. Have you ever had to turn back on a mountain? What happened? Yes. The next mountain I climbed, where I was attempting to be the first British woman to snowboard from the top. Mustagata in China a 7,500m peak.

It was a month long expedition and just two weeks into the climb after lots of bonding had been done between team mates (some of us had been strangers at the start of the expedition) there was a terribly awful and sad death. Jonathan Peacock, a very fit and able 39yr old died. At the time signs pointed to altitude sickness (we later found out it was a DVT) but that obviously brought the reality of mountaineering and what can happen to the forefront of our minds. After Jonathan's death we spent time considering whether we would even continue the expedition. Death on mountains certainly wasn't something I'd considered too much either and it highlighted many things to think about, including turning back and not reaching the summit. Was this something I was prepared to do and how would I make that call? Losing Jonathan was the toughest thing I've ever had to deal with on a trip and it made me very sure about one thing - I wanted to return from the mountains I climbed.

I would do all I could within the circumstances that I was exposing myself to to reduce the risks where it was in my control to do so. We made the decision to continue this expedition and for the first time I thought long and hard about making the top or not. The most common thought about getting to the summit is that you are there. In fact you are not there. You are halfway there. It is vital to remember you still have to get back down and after a tough climb to the top this can be the hardest part. For this reason a plan is often made on mountains to have a turnaround time the time at which you abandon your summit push and head back down. NO MATTER WHAT. On Mustagata, with less than 200m to the top, we reached this critical time. As a team we had discussed and set the turn around time and as a team we turned back. Was it difficult to turn back? Surprisingly no! If you had of asked me before I actually had to turn back how I would have coped with turning back I would have said that I couldnt imagine doing that - I think I would probably have felt as if I had failed and it would have been awful.

After Jonathans death I knew that I didn't want to die and I wanted to be as safe as I could be on the mountain. When we reached the turnaround time I just knew that the best move I could make was a 180 turnaround and getting back down was now the priority. What did turning back teach you? I was surprised turning around had been so easy, but I realised that the expedition had been amazing. I still had the experience of climbing the mountain, of being in that part of China. I'd still gone through all the things you go through to get there in the first place: the training, the preparation, the anticipation. Id been through more emotion than I thought possible on such a trip, Id been higher than Id ever been before and I was one of the first British woman to snowboard on the mountain. It didn't matter that it hadn't been from the top. What mattered was that I was going home. Back to all the people I loved and who loved me. More than anything I learnt that the success of climbing a mountain is measured by getting back down, that reaching the top is only a very small part of the trip and that there's so much more to mountains than the summit. How did not reaching the top on this mountain affect your next climbs? In a way I suppose it took the pressure off. I still went with the intention to summit but I knew that I would be ok if I didn't and I knew that it would still be an amazing trip if I didn't. I think it also made me safer, I trusted myself more, I went with the knowledge that I had it in me to make the right call and I had no issues with turning back. Summit fever (when people try to reach the top no matter what) is a very real issue in mountaineering and people kill themselves because they don't turn back.

I absolutely knew I could turn back. What advice would you give to other people who climb, about reaching the top? I think there are two main areas Id suggest are worth thinking about: Are you prepared to turn back and do you know when to turn back? Mentally any climber should be prepared to turn back, think it through and realise that the top isn't everything. Obviously it can be important and the intention to reach the top is there but the biggest priority should always be getting back down. Being at the top is only half way there - do you know when you are half way exhausted?

Physically, mentally and emotionally where are your limits? I believe we can use practical things like a turnaround time to keep us safe but there's nothing quite like experience to know honestly: who you are, how you are and where your limits are. I do believe that someone with no experience of mountaineering can climb Mt Everest. I also believe that they are the most likely candidates for not returning. I learnt the most important lessons Id ever learnt on mountains when I didn't summit Mustagata. These lessons were valuable to me when I climbed again but also in life in general this is a bit cliche but Its most definitely about the journey and not all about the destination.

For more info www.squashfalconer.com"

Cancer Survivor treks through the jungle to open a trail for cancer research on the Amazon 5000 Expedition

The Amazon 5000 - For the Cure foundation, www.amazon5000.com, announced today that special forces veteran and cancer survivor, Mickey Grosman, is making history on the Amazon 5000 Expedition. He has already covered hundreds of miles on his mission to reignite the fight against cancer and to inspire children currently battling cancer. Mickey his team are currently on Leg 5 out of 12 on his year long, 5,000 mile expedition across the South American continent.

This leg is monumental as they will be making history by forging a route where Francisco De Orellanas famous 1541 El-Dorado voyage was forced to turn back due to the impassable terrain and harsh conditions. Mickey is leading a team of 6 through the virtually impenetrable terrain of the Eastern Andes through the Sumaco National Park in Ecuador, creating a path through the unexplored region never crossed by man before. This area is notorious for its unrelenting rain. By creating this path Mickey will be opening a opportunity for future researchers to study the plant life of this region. 70% of the plants with anti-cancer properties are native to tropical rainforests just like the Sumaco region.

It is Mickeys hope researchers will find in this never before seen vegetation, a cure to cancer. After opening this trail Mickey is descending the brutal Eastern Andes to the tropical rainforest and will continue on the Amazon 5000 expedition, making his way along the mighty Amazon River and through the dense jungles of Ecuador, Peru, Columbia and Brazil.

Follow this journey on Facebook - http://www.facebook.com/Amazon5000

Suitable venue for incredible Adventure Film?

Hello there,

I am looking for a venue to host a rather special evening. I am organising a film showing (Hanuman Airlines) on behalf of Sano Babu who was voted the National Geographic Adventurer of the year 2012 along with his equally crazy expedition partner Lakpa. In April 2011, they launched a paraglider from Mount Everest's summit and kayaked the Ganges to the Indian Ocean. Babu had never climbed before, Lakpa couldnt swim, and neither had seen the ocean before. Babu is in the UK for a short time only to show his film, answer many questions as possible and generally enchant audiences with his message.

The requirements for the venue: Have thecapacityofat least50 - ideally 100 Have a projector, PA system, seats etc! Location Central or south londoni deally but would consider else where. Doesn't need to be fancy but needs to do the job well! Have availability 21st/22nd or Aug - Maybe there are adventure clubs and organisation that would have a venue? I am also looking at venues outside of London so if anyone has any ideas or organisations that would like to host him them do let me know.

Kind Regards,

Graham

Explorer of the Month - Ants Bolingbroke-Kent

EXPLORER OF THE MONTH Ever wanted to know how to become an explorer or maybe how to find the perfect GT and mobile reception in the back of beyond?

Each month Explorers Connect interviews one of its members to find out everything you need to know - and there's never a pith helmet to be seen. This month, the wonderful, the inspiring: ANTS BOLINGBROKE-KENT. 

What are you working on right now?

At the moment I'm working on a hotch potch of projects. I've just come back from Georgia, where I was producing an episode of BBC2s Worlds Most Dangerous Roads. It was pretty epic what a totally brilliant country! Now I'm working on a new anti-poaching show for ITV and also.most excitingly working on a new book. I'm writing the book for Summersdale publishers and its going to be about a journey down the legendary Ho Chi Minh Trail in Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia. Ill be doing this trip in Jan-Feb next year, on my own, on a Honda C90 moped. The book will be out in early 2014. Very exciting, but also a little scary.

How did you become an explorer?

I've always loved travel but sort of fell into the adventure game by accident. My best friend from school, Jo, had the ridiculous idea to drive a pink tuk tuk from Bangkok to Brighton. And it all went sideways from there. I wouldn't ever term myself an explorer though. More a part-time adventurer with a penchant for Very long Trips in Very Silly Vehicles.

Why do you do it?

Because its fun. Because it satisfies my perpetually itchy feet. And because I cant bear the thought of getting to the end of my life and regretting I didn't do more with it.

What scares you the most?

Sharks. Spiders. The dark. Ghosts. No seriously, there are quite a few things about my upcoming book that make me rather nervous. Parts of the Laos jungle I'm going through are extremely remote and allegedly full of all the above (excluding sharks of course). The Ho Chi Minh Trail is the most bombed place on the planet, and there are many tales of the jungle being haunted by all the soldiers and people who died there in the 580,000 bombing missions the USA flew over the area. Oh, and someone got eaten by a tiger there less than a decade ago.

What is your greatest moment so far?

Raising 50,000 for the mental health charity Mind, through our tuk tuk trip. My friend Jo had suffered severe mental health problems as a teenager, hence our decision to raise money for Mind. So many people were so inspired by Jo's story and her amazing recovery, it was really fantastic. What's the most dangerous situation you've ever been in? I hate to be disappointing but I've never been in a Shit I'm going to die situation. I'm just not hardcore enough for that! Probably the time I've felt closest to it was when three of us were testing a new adventure for The Adventurists in February 2011. In temperatures of -40, we attempted to drive an old Ural motorbike up the frozen River Ob to the Russian Arctic Circle. On one particularly cold night the bike kept breaking down, there wasn't a whiff of civilisation in sight, and things got a little spicy. I got to that point of extreme cold when I didn't really care what happened, and the other two were having to force me to move. If we hadn't come across a tiny town and a warm bed, I dread to think what would have happened.

What makes you smile?

Open roads, feeling free, new places, dancing, very loud electronic music, tea made over a camp fire, a Large GT at the end of a long day, the hum of a motorbike engine, (winning) Boggle, words, unexpected adventures, achieving something you didn't think you could do.

What are the biggest obstacles to expedition success?

Your own mind. Even if you don't have the best equipment and haven't spent months planning something, if you're determined enough, you can make it happen.

What's the worst injury you've ever had?

Nothing really (loads of broken bones as a child but they don't really count here!)

What's your nickname?

I have a few, they're all animal related make what you will of that! Ants, Ferret and Skunk are the main ones. Long stories.

How do you balance the adventurous life with your home life?

That's the hardest thing about what I do. I try and make sure I'm not away for more than 3 months of the year. Doing this sort of job is awesome and I feel very lucky, but home life is also incredibly important. As much as I adore travel and adventure, I also adore being at home in Somerset. People often say Wow your life sounds so exciting. But I also spend a lot of time at home talking to the dog and hanging up my boyfriends washing - its not all rock and roll!

What's the one thing you do better than anyone else you know?

I'm pretty good at drinking hard liquor in odd places. Whether its vodka up a Mongolian mountain, Siberian moonshine or chacha in Georgia. A dubious quality I know. I think I'm also pretty good at avoiding potholes in a tuk tuk.

What one thing couldn't you live without on expedition?

Wirral. My grubby little teddy bear dragon thing. He comes everywhere with me. Hell definitely be riding the Ho Chi Minh Trail.

What is the best advice you've been given in your career?

Someone said to me years ago The first rule of life is to turn up. He was a film producer who a friend of a friend had said I should go and meet, as he might be able to help me get my first job in TV. I remember thinking Whats the point, hows he going to help me? But that meeting got me a brilliant job at ITV and led to so many doors opening. As I left the producer said to me The first rule of life is to turn up. And I've never forgotten it. It applies to so many situations.

Is there anything left to explore?

Of course. Your mind. Your own back garden I really don't subscribe to all that rubbish about there being nothing left to explore. It depends who you are, what your past experiences are and how you look at things.

If you could only do one more expedition what would it be and why?

Something in Russia, but I'm not quite sure what. What's your life time ambition? To be the next Dervla Murphy.

How can readers learn more about you?

Check out my website www.theitinerant.co.uk and also follow me on Twitter @AntsBK.

Ants Bolingbroke-Kent was interviewed and edited by Frank Coles, a writer and broadcaster with a taste for adventure.

You can find out more about him on Explorers Connect or at www.frankcoles.com."

Kathmandu - Kashgar - Kyrgyzstan overland

Hi everyone,

In 2013 I'm planning an overland adventure (by any means other than flying) from Bangalore to Birmingham. My proposed route will take me through Nepal, Tibet, Western China and then into the Stans. I've read on my travel forums that if coming from Nepal, only a 15-21 day visa will be issued for Tibet. An existing Chinese visa will be ripped up. It is my understanding the the Tibet visa can be changed to a Chinese one when leaving Tibet, but the 15-21 day rule still applies. So that means you have very little time to get out of China. However, I see a number of overland tours do this route and seem to take much longer over it. So I hoped that somebody may be able to advise me whether there is a potential way around this?

Many thanks,

Ed

edwardjfhewitt@gmail.com

Question - cameras

I am off to Island Peak in Nepal in November and need a wee camera that can do great views and people shots, and handle the temps of -20C and UV at 6000m. Any suggestions?

Many thanks,

Dave Stewart

dave@freshairlearning.com

Walking in Logged Tropical Forest (can be a nightmare)

Trekking in tropical forests has long attracted people, despite the stifling humidity and temperature and the increased likelihood of being bitten, infected, scratched by spines (from plants or caterpillars) or getting completely lost in the disorienting landscape.

On a bad day I get claustrophobic and exhausted; on a good day the forest is one of the most incredible places on earth. The smells, sounds and cooling shade under a true tropical canopy is an experience never to forget. Sadly, it is an experience with dwindling possibilities. I am in Borneo writing this article after having spent two months collecting data with the SAFE (Stability of Altered Forest Ecosystems) Project.

The project, the largest ecology experiment in the world and open to all scientists, is set up in 7000 hectares of logged forest between two of the most important conservation sites in South East Asia, Maliau Basin and Danum Valley. Incredibly, in Sabah, the Malaysian province covering the north of Borneo, there is no longer any unmodified tropical forest that isnt protected as a reserve. The rest of the landscape is either Oil Palm plantation or logged forest. Trekking through the SAFE Project sites to collect data is rarely like the stunning tropical forest scene that many people will have in their minds. Logging opens up the ground to light and a profusion of plants shoot up to around two metres above the ground. Monotonous ginger, rattan with its spines perfectly placed to rip your skin, and thick grass which cuts like a paper-cut is everywhere. I had, perhaps foolishly imagined selectively logged forest this has been pretty much clear felled except for a few token trees. Saying that, biodiversity in logged forest doesnt suffer as much as you would expect.

Most groups so far studied maintain relatively high abundance, and ground flora increase in diversity as well as abundance. So far so good, but logged forest such as this doesnt remain so. Everything except for the fragments of forest SAFE will be monitoring will be converted to Oil Palm plantation over the next year or two. The last forest connecting Maliau and Danum will pass into history. And if the diversity of species in logged forest is an encouragement, the diversity of species in Oil Palm is a nosedive. I probably dont need to explain what damage an endless monoculture of an imported species does to an ecosystem. The encouraging results that SAFE will no doubt produce over the next ten years will tell us how much forest you need to conserve a certain amount of biodiversity.

This will hopefully be adopted in a similar way that hedgerows as corridors have been in the UK. Indeed, Malaysian law already stipulates that 30 metres of forest has to be left on either side of a waterway. Sadly, most that I've seen here appear to be logged forest. Before I finally left the forest (logged and unlogged) I climbed the highest mountain in the area with a friend. At 930m its no giant, but there are no paths or proper maps and we ascended at around 750 metres/hour with a trusty GPS, hacking our way through dense patches. Above 850m the forest changed completely from lowland dipterocarp forest to elfin woodland and finally to heath forest, where gnarled shrubs and giant clumps of moss are the order of the day. None of the other scientists at the camp knew about this.

This tiny island of heath forest must have been separated by a similar ecosystem by tens of miles. I have no idea where the nearest example is. That it survives and sustains is fantastic. But that it shows something of the resilience of nature is also true. Tropical forest is something not to lose. That there is only 700km2 left in Sabah (as opposed to 14,000km2 of Oil Palm plantation) is sad. But take a step into what is left, to see the majesty of those giant trees, and at least we can be grateful that large swathes are protected.

Any traveller or explorer, or human for that matter has to content themselves amidst landscapes that have been modified permanently by us. Many have lost much of their beauty, diversity and attraction for adventurers. That the products of this modification support the modern lifestyle, including travel, is also true.

Sometimes when travelling we think about all that has been lost in the transition to the world today. SAFE will be a heartbreaking process, giving us the raw data as a landscape is transformed and species such as the eight hornbill species go locally extinct. Looking back in 10 years time and expanding these 7000 hectares outwards, we will have a poignant reminder of what has been lost."