Living with the Matses

I spent 2.5 months living in Puerto Alegre and Estiron, 2 Matses villages. The Matses are a remote Amazonian tribe who live on the border of Peru and Brazil in the Javari Valley.

One of the Matses villages was very welcoming and is more than happy for other adventurers to come and stay.

If anyone is interested please contact me at paddy.leflufy@gmail.com

Encircle Africa

Into Somaliland The 13 months of travel were hard, fantastic months. I was heading to Tangier, Morocco, from Tangier, Morocco. Strange perhaps, but returning to where I had started was a pre-requisite of circumnavigating Africa by public transport, solo and unsupported, for the first time.

It was an expedition I had christened Encircle Africa. I learnt within days of leaving Tangier that the term public transport is a much looser one in Africa than in Europe, roughly equating to anything that is willing to transport you and your 20 kilogram rucksack anywhere for a fee. The important factor was that I didn't have my own transport, and was morally barred from privately chartering any. Four of the 13 months were still ahead of me at the Somaliland border with Djibouti on the edge of the Gulf of Aden. I had approached Somaliland, the autonomous semi-independent region of north-eastern Somalia, from Ethiopia. In doing so I had abandoned the African coast at Lamu, Kenya, to avoid unsafe southern Somalia.

This was the first significant detour from the coast since leaving Tangier and heading west around the continent nine months previously. The temperature seemed to jump significantly as soon as I cross the concrete bridge designed for functionality rather than beauty over the plastic-infested dry Wajaale River. It marks the border between Ethiopia and Somaliland, close to the Ethiopian town of Jijiga. An old Peugeot bush taxi took me and five others the two hours to the de facto capital, Hargeisa. Built in 1953, the Oriental Hotel is the oldest in the capital, and one of the best in town; the management used to the whimsical desires of visitors trying to circumnavigate the continent it seemed. It was unusual for my meagre budget to stretch so far. I was usually looking for the worst hotel in town. The Oriental was one of the few multi-storey buildings in the centre of the city. Photographs around the reception area showed a torn shell of a building.

It had recovered well since the civil war, the collapse of Somali central government and the declaration of unilateral independence by Somaliland in 1991. The wide corridors of the upper floors overlook a central covered courtyard that acts as breakfast room and restaurant. My room looked out over the dusty roads dotted with the vast parasols of goldsmiths and money-changers. The money-men sat in the shade besides pyramidal stacks of blocks of grubby Somaliland Shillings the size of house bricks. Held together with rubber bands they equated to little more than 12 each. Wandering around the city centre, a few blocks of mostly unattractive utilitarian buildings, it was difficult to avoid falling into conversation, making Hargeisa a very friendly place. Elegantly dressed ladies in colourful wax cloth wraps greeted me in Mancunian, London, and Scottish accents.

The lingua franca in Somaliland is English, the state having been the protectorate of British Somaliland until independence in 1960 and unification with Italian Somaliland to create Somalia. Seeing the success of their homeland, a substantial number of people have returned from refuge in Britain. At 600 for a prime specimen, I couldnt afford a camel at the livestock market. There were almost as many good-natured but clingy children as animals. The camels looked nonchalant, perfectly suited to the conditions, their owners initials painted in vibrant green on their flanks. In contrast, the children were desperate to take in every second of my visit, despite the pleas of older citizens to leave me alone. On Independence Avenue I past a red post box made in Stirlingshire.

It was torn open like a ripped up inner tube of toilet roll. On a stone plinth the camouflaged fuselage of a MiG fighter jet sent from Mogadishu that crashed while attacking the city before independence in 1991. Since then, while the rest of Somalia has become a byword for chaos, internationally unrecognised Somaliland has quietly advanced, even housing a Coca-Cola factory. My circumnavigation saw me moving roughly northwards soon enough. I managed to get a place in an old Toyota Land Cruiser heading towards Djibouti via a rough road and a 20 hour journey time. We travelled from the late afternoon onwards, to avoid the heat of the day, in what could tentatively be called desert. Given the surrounding dryness of the environment I was surprised by the quantity of wildlife. Tiny dik-dik, antelope the size of a domestic cat, roam as the vehicle passes.

Birds of an astonishing variety of colours shoot by the open windows. A giant tortoise desperately tries to look inconspicuous beneath a scraggy bush, its limbs drawn in in sleep. The view became a little monotonous as the sun sank and it got increasingly difficult to decipher the objects around me. The ground was sand, the shrubs small woody-stemmed plants with small leaves. Our arrival at Boroma (twinned with Henley-on-Thames) did little to break the monotony, and as it got dark I tried to sleep, drawing in my limbs like the tortoise. The early morning eventually arrived, and saw me arrive at Zeila. How the driver found his way I couldn't say, with tyre-tracks leading off in all directions all the time. I would have liked to spend a little time in Zeila, the home to one of the oldest mosques in the world, but my lack of private transport prevented me doing so. I was also concerned for the apparent lack of water.

The Zeila I was expecting to arrive at was an ancient port. I began to believe the Gulf of Aden didn't actually exist, not catching sight of the muddy blue, flat and uninteresting water until the border with Djibouti at Looyada. My short time in Somalil and had ended, though my circumnavigation and the desire to be near the edge of the African continent would continue for another four months, until I reached Tangier and was able to remind myself that I had been there before, and the first solo and unsupported circumnavigation of Africa by public transport was complete.

Riding with Eagle Hunters

Hunting with Golden Eagles is a tradition that has continued uninterrupted in Western Mongolia for over a millennia.

Recently two young Brits returned from an adventure to document and photograph this ancient custom as part of a wider horse-riding and packrafting expedition. Over the course of six weeks, photojournalist Jamie Maddison and his expedition partner Matthew Traver travelled all over the Bayan-lgii Province of Western Mongolia, riding on horse-back across the empty plains; following the proud eagle hunters over shattered mountains and later navigating the icy Khovd river in temperatures down past -15'C.

The expedition was initially contemplated as a training run in preparation for an upcoming six-month adventure that the pair are undertaking next year to commemorate the centenary of a 30,000km journey by the Irish explorer Sir Charles Howard-Bury right across Central Asia. The project is titled One Steppe Ahead. From being bucked off a horse full-gallop to getting a boat overturned mid-river, Jamie and Matt certainly had a unique and exciting time of things, and now Jamie is offering a photographic lecture about his travels to meet the hunters and the team's various other escapades out in the wintry steppe.

But for the moment it's back to the planning board for the team; working out the next tentative steps for One Step Ahead.

Please keep an eye peeled for further updates soon! For more information about Jamie please visit www.jamiemaddison.com, or to see example of his previous journalistic and photographic work, please visit www.sidetracked.co.uk.

Details about Matthew Traver's previous adventures can be found at www.matthewtraver.com."

How do I approach/ get sponsorship for an expedition?

I have a plan for an expedition which I think a university may be interested in providing financial sponsorship for. However, I have no previous experience of organising an expedition.

The expedition would be dependent on some financial funding, so it would not be possible to go ahead with the organising process without it.

How should I approach the university to ask if they would be interested, and at what stage of the process? As much detail as possible would be extremely helpful.

Thanks

Geoscientific, Mountaineering and Photographic Expedition to Peru

Expedition background, members, team and partners: A group of three Romanian climbers, (one of which studying Bsc Environmental Geoscience at the University of Edinburgh formed this years National Geographic Young Explorers team to carry a scientific and mountaineering expedition in Peru.

The expedition was comprised of three members: Sorin Rechitan (expedition photographer), Aurel Salasan (mountaineering and safety) and Sergiu Jiduc (logistic leader). It was funded in part by the National Geographic Society through a Young Explorers Grant as well as private companies and individuals from Arad, Romania. Other organizations with whom we collaborate includes: The National Snow and Ice Data Center, Boulder, Colorado, USA (NSIDC), The Mountain Institute, Deutcher Alpenverein Club and Austrian Alpine Club. Expedition aims: 1) to reproduce older photographs made by the 1932, 1936 and 1939 Alpenverein Expeditions to Cordillera Blanca and Cordillera Huayhaush of Peru. 2) to compare the old and new photographs and interpret the landscape changes that occurred in the last 80 years. 3) to identify such changes in glacial, vegetation cover as well as human impact evolution 4) to film and photograph the entire expedition, focusing on field activities such as research method, video interviews with local people, climbing etc. in order to create a high quality documentary and photographic exhibitions 5) to provide interested organizations such as the NSIDC and Mountain Institute with updated photographic and video material.

Brief Description of research/activities conducted during expedition: After our arrival in Huaraz, we met with our contact in Peru, Mr Christian Silva, mountain guide, with whom we identified the photo locations more precisely using his knowledge of the area, GPS coordinates and Alpenverein maps. After sorting out logistics we spent three days climbing above 4000m in Cordillera Negra to reproduce six panoramas. Next, we visited a few valleys such as Cohup, Yanganuco and Paron, where we looked at flooding, glacial and vegetation characteristics reproducing more Alpenverein photographs. We stopped the field research for a few days as Aurel Salasan and Sergiu Jiduc climbed Artensonraju 6025m via the South East Face, D+, 800m, 45-75. The climb has been video recorded. Next, we moved to Cordillera Huyahuash, where we hired four donkeys, a horse and a donkey driver and trekked around Jirishanca, Yerupaja and Sula Grande for six days and reproduced a limited number of photographs. After two days of rest, Aurel Salasan and Sergiu Jiduc attempted a serious climb on Yerupaja 6617m, via the West Face 1000m level difference, the second highest mountain in Peru.

This proved to be a very dangerous and demanding climb and due to the high objective hazards (avalanches, bergschrunds, overhanging seracs) we were forced to hide in a crevice for seven hours at 6200m. Eventually, we abseiled the west face using V-threads and snow picks. Back to safety, we left Cordillera Huayhuash and moved to Santa Cruz valley in Cordillera Blanca. Here, we reproduced more photographs and climbed the beautiful Alpamayo mountain 5947m via the French Direct Route 600m D+/TD, 65-90. In Huaraz, we were involved in a social program with Changes for New Hope an organization preoccupied with the improvement of the lives of children living in the Peruvian Andes. During the last week, we visited Lima, Cuzco, Machu Picchu, Puno and Lake Titicaca with the Los Uros floating islands. On the 19th of September we left Peru and after 20 hours of travelling, we arrived in Arad, Romania Expedition outcomes and benefits:

The expedition has been a great success, managing to reproduce around 23 Alpenverein photographs, and taking hundreds more with great scientific importance. Interviews with local people have pointed out serious problems regarding the illegal mining and contamination of the areas visited. Preliminary comparison of photographs shows great changes especially those related to glacial characteristics.

The expedition material is being processed by National Geographic Society and our team and will be transformed into scientific papers, travel journal, photographic exhibitions and probably a TV documentary. The NSIDC and the Mountain Institute are interested to update their database with our photographic material and last but not least, all expedition members have learned a lot about running a scientific research project and collaborating with science based institutions as well as people from a different country.

Invading Krak des Chevaliers

Atop a large hill some 700 meters above sea level and overlooking a lush green valley in Western Syria, stands the magnificent Castle of the Kurds. Once described by Lawrence of Arabia as ...perhaps the best preserved and most wholly admirable castle in the world, it leaves modern day visitors as impressed now as it had T.E. Lawrence himself a century ago.

Built between 1142 and 1271 the Krak, or Castle, now a UNESCO world heritage site is still recognised as one of the best specimens of a Crusader Castles in the world. Set against the lovely hilly landscape, the Krak from a distance really looks like something out of a fairy tale and even though you're nowhere near the English countryside, you cant help thoughts of Camelot engulfing your imagination. The rounded towers that bulge out of the thick curtain walls not only add to the character and unusual appearance, but more importantly fortify the castle in a much more efficient way. The thoughts were that these rounded edges, not only eliminated the weakness of corners, however also provided deflection of any incoming projectiles.

The objects would no longer impact at a 90 degree angle, reducing the impact force. On approach this mammoth of a structure just grows and the true scale of the thickness and bulkiness of the entire fortification leaves you with a sense of insignificance and bewilderment. Doors open from 9am an entrance as of Easter 2011 will cost you S150 (approx 1.70). As you enter, its almost as if you're being swallowed up by the ancient masonry when you progress through. A stone path with a gradual gradient channels you through the walls, past a gift shop and eventually leads you to an opening where the sun above greets your eyes. When you reach the courtyard there is an abundance to explore; stairs running to different levels of the ruins, walls to scramble from, and perhaps best of all its making your way through the narrow spiral staircases in the towers and reaching one of the Kraks high points. If you can withstand the wind then you're in for a treat. With nothing of real significance within miles of where you're standing, some of Syrias best kept countryside is in your sights with communities dotted around the the undulating landscape with spectacular views of the adjacent village below. Within the inner walls, a large labyrinthine of enclosures fill the ruins - where even natural light struggles to penetrate. No artificial lighting exists anywhere within the compound, instead, the few rays that do make their way through the barriers are funnelled through the gaps, cracks and windows. Almost all parts of the castle are accessible but some are so pitch black that you cant see your hand before of your face.

There are various stretchers that you can either fall down or walk into so best to bring a torch. The darkness also plays host to midges and insects which shun the sun and heat found on the outside. Remarkably, if your quiet, despite the wind and altitude, you can hear echoes from wasps buzzing through these areas. It is all a very refreshing sight to still be able to visit a castle in its prime. Many more examples of such spectacular architecture and history are too often ruined by the modern day luxuries of electricity, guides and bound by health and safety outlines. Here you left to Doinit yourself. You can really spend hours here, admiring the architecture as well as the surroundings, which provides for some great hiking. For castle enthusiasts, you'll be pleased to hear that this is a series of fortifications in this region built to defend the Homs Gap. While they don't quite match the Krak des Chevaliers reputation, reports suggest that they are as much fun to explore as the headline grabber. Reaching the castle is pretty straight forward; its location will usually require transit through the nearby city of Homs, approximately 40 miles on the outskirts. Simply arrive at the cities bus station where local taxi drivers are well aware what most tourists come here to see. Just strolling around, you should be able to hear them biding for your attention with the asking words Krak? Krak? (English: castle? castle?).

If this fails then simply ask them. Most will be more than happy which in a shared taxi (usually small Toyota van) with a local family should be cost you about S800 (9). The journey should take you the best part of 40 minutes and the driver will drop you in front of the main entrance. Buses also service this route. Either way that you travel, be sure to negotiate a return time with the driver or check when the last bus back is as or you could find yourself standing by the roadside for a ride to come long. While many visitors come to see the Krak on day trip it would really be a missed opportunity if you weren't to spend a night here. Clearly visible from the Castle, only a short walk away and nestled along an opposite valley wall, directly facing the Krak, stands the Bebers Hotel (25USD ).

It's restaurant boosts an impressive meze (selection of small dishes served starters) followed by whatever the staff recommend. The restaurant faces the castle making it a great place to kick back with a bottle of Syrian Bottled beer and watch the sun go down. When deciding which room to pick, ask for room 101. In the morning you'll be able to walk out on your own balcony and be greeted by the magnificent Krak des Chevaliers as this room is in the perfect position, directly across, leaving a lasting impression on any occupant and a sight that has greeted visitors for centuries.

www.doinitonline.com

Syria is currently experiencing severe political unrest. The FCO advise against all travel.

What video equipment should I use on an ocean rowing boat?

Hi all,

Does anyone have advice on which small, portable video cameras to use on water? I am conducting a crossing of the English Channel in an ocean rowing boat, so any equipment would have to be waterproof obviously. I was thinking of a number of Go Pro's, but maybe someone has other suggestions?

Thanks,

Mike