A Price on Their Heads

Ever since my aunt lifted me up to a glass case at the back of Oxfords Pitt Rivers Museum, at the impressionable age of eight, I have been hooked on shrunken heads. Like so many schoolboys before me, my lower jaw dropped as I gazed in awe at the array of miniature human heads, correctly known as tsantsas. There was something wholly captivating about their gnarled features, the sewn lips, little hollow necks and manes of jet black hair. I longed to learn the secret processes, known to a tribe deep in the South American jungle, which enabled decapitated human heads to be shrunk to the size of a grapefruit.

Despite an ongoing debate about whether museums should harbour human remains, the Pitt Rivers Museum still holds five, and the British Museum has at least ten. Interest in the gruesome exhibits remains strong. A roaring private trade in the illicit handicraft has developed, with heads being snapped up by wealthy collectors, many from the Far East and Japan. The genuine article comes from the Upper Amazon, a region on the Pastaza river between Peru and Ecuador. For thousands of years a tribe called the Shuar (misnamed by Western observers as Jivaro, meaning savage), shrunk the heads of their dead enemies. Although historically dozens of tribal societies have taken trophy heads, only the Shuar ever came up with the curious idea of reducing these trophies in size. One possible exception is the ancient Nazcan and coastal civilisations of the Atacama desert, with whom the Shuar share a common ancestry.

The Shuars victims were subject to swift and brutal attacks. During surprise raids on enemy villages, warriors would hack off as many heads as they could. The tsantsa raids were their raison detre. They proved a warriors bravery and the community's superiority. Retreating into the jungle with their fresh harvest of heads, the Shuar would begin work on their trophies immediately. They believed that humans have three souls. One of these the musiak is charged with avenging the victims death. The only way of pacifying the enraged soul was by shrinking the head in which it lay. During decapitation, a knife was used to peel back the victims skin from the upper part of the chest, the shoulders and the back. Then the head was chopped as far as possible, close to the collar bone using a stone-edged knife. The warrior would remove his own headband and thread it through the neck and out of the mouth, making it easier to carry, slung over the shoulder. The face was literally peeled off the skull, before being sewn up into a neat pouch of skin. This was steeped in hot water for a few minutes. Hot pebbles were then placed in the pouch, causing it to shrivel and shrink, taking great care not to damage the features. When the pouch was too small for pebbles, hot sand scooped from a riverbank was carefully swished about inside.

Next, the lips were sewn tightly shut with a strand of twine. A machete blade was heated and pressed against the lips to dry them. Then the facial skin was repeatedly rubbed with charcoal. Sometimes a large red seed was placed beneath the eyelids, filling the hole, preventing the musiak from seeing out. Between four and six days of treatment were needed for the basic tsantsa to be completed, at which time it was about the size of a mans fist. A hole was made at the top of the head and a string attached to it, so that the warrior could wear it around his neck for the celebratory tsantsa feast. As far as the Shuar people were concerned, the tsantsas had no intrinsic value, and they were merely tossed back into the jungle as soon as the avenging souls had been appeased. But once Victorian trailblazers got their hands on the curious trophies, a thriving market began. Search the Internet and you come across plenty of examples. Most of them are fakes, or made for the tourist trade, and are often fashioned from plucked goat skin, which has overly large pores. Genuine tsantsas have delicate nasal hair, and a light oily shine to the skin. Only a finished one will have twine hanging from the lips, which signifies that three enormous feasts have been held in honour of the head. On the Internet you can find black, white, and even Chinese shrunken heads.

They are outright fakes generally made in Guatemalan workshops at the turn of the last century. The Shuar would never have any cause to shrink a foreigners head, because they dont believe that outsiders have souls. On one expedition to the Upper Amazon, I hired a ramshackle boat and made for the remote Pastaza in search of the Shuar. My guide was a veteran of the USA-Vietnam war who told me that the Shuar tribe, made the Viet Cong look like pussy cats. Everyone en route warded us away. The Shuar will chop off your heads, they told us, and drink your blood and eat your brains. When we finally reached Shuar territory late in the evening, a man ran down to greet our boat and present me with a gift of a roasted monkey. In the background we could hear singing, which I was sure was the ancient ballads of the Shuar. Shrunken heads would be nearby. In the dawn light we climbed the steep bank up to the village, where the chief was waiting. He plied us with a strange white creamy beverage, called masato.

Only later did I realise how it is made. Manioc roots are boiled up and mashed with a stick. As they mash, the makers grab handfuls of the goo, chew it, and spit it back into the bowl. The enzymes in their saliva start off the fermenting process. After downing a third bowl of masato, I asked the chief if he had problems with the neighbouring villages. I motioned the shape of a small head with my hands. We love our neighbours, said the chief, they are our friends. We all pray together when the people in the flying boats come. 'Flying boats? The chief nodded. The friendly people from Alabama. They bring us tambourines and little pink pills but best of all, they brought us Jesus. What about war? What about heads? I asked. Why do we need to kill or shrink heads when we have the son of God? he replied. In little more than a generation the ancient ways of the Shuar have been changed forever. Small-scale petroleum projects in the deep jungle are one reason for this. But the overbearing responsibility must be assumed by a variety of missionary groups who have sought to cast the Shuar into the modern world, and to save their souls. Landing in remote jungle enclaves in flying boats, the white man has wrought change on an unprecedented scale.

The Shuar peoples have also been devastated by the measles, tuberculosis, venereal diseases and the common cold. The cures no longer come from traditional plant-based medicines but by handfuls of little pink pills. The only positive factor in terms of population is that the cessation of tsantsa raids has led to a reduction of death through warfare. After a tour of the village, the chief invited us to the makeshift church, built by the missionaries from Alabama. The proud former head-shrinkers stood in neat rows. As the noises of the jungle night echoed around us, the villagers sang Onward Christian Soldiers, translated into Shuar. But although most of the villagers were keen to sing hymns and show off their Shuar Bibles, one man the village shaman was less happy.

The missionaries don't understand what their religion has done, he explained. Head-hunting was a brutal practice, but it was our culture. It developed over a very long time, and had meant much more to us than Jesus and the Bible. The shaman lit a home-made cigar of mapacho, black jungle tobacco, as thick as his wrist. His eyes seemed to glaze over. Head shrinking gave reason to our existence, he went on, exhaling a plume of pungent smoke. Without the head-raiding parties our lives have changed, we are not the same people as we were in our fathers time. We are weaker. We are timid now. But worst of all, we have lost our honour.

Solo Pacific 2012

In May 2012 double Guinness World Record holder Charlie Martell attempted to row solo and unsupported for 6,000 miles across the North Pacific from Japan to the USA to raise funds for two charities, and to set a new Guinness World Record for the first and fastest solo Briton.

Charlie first launched the idea for Pacific 2012 after an inspiring meeting with a charity he has been involved with for many years, Give Them A Sporting Chance which enables those with disabilities of all ages to complete their sporting ambitions. Martell is also a core crew member of another charity, Toe in the Water who offer competitive sailing for servicemen and women who have often suffered traumatic injuries.

Bringing these two charities together has been Martells mission in the last year and he has been the powerhouse behind the Pacific 2012 challenge which aims to raise much needed funds for both organisations. Charlie Martell is a Mine Action Specialist who started his career serving with the British Army. He has served in Iraq Northern Ireland and Bosnia.

Having sailed as a child and with strong family links to the Royal Navy stretching back generations, Martell is very at home on the water. Swapped his sails for oars, this challenge was to be the ultimate test in mental strength and endurance. All the qualities that he possesses and put in to practice for the epic journey that was ahead of him... what happened...?"

I'm interested in becoming an expedition leader. Where is the best place to get training to become one?

I am extremely interested in becoming an expedition guide or a team leader. I was wondering where the best place is to get this kind of training? 

matt_schafer@juno.com

Expedition Arunachal Pradesh

What is Expedition Arunachal Pradesh?

Expedition Arunachal Pradesh is a photo documentary project by Jason K. Powers covering one of the least known tribes in all of India facing possible extinction. Paired with the photo documentary, Jason will also be doing basic ethnographic research with a small team, on this remote tribe. There are many undocumented areas, many unseen faces, and so many untold stories in the land of the dawn-lit mountains. One tribe has been chosen. Jason intends to visit the Zakhring tribe who are positioned in one of the furthest north east regions of India in the valleys of the Himalayan Mountains of Arunachal Pradesh. Arunachal Pradesh is bordered on three sides by Bhutan, China and Myanmar, with the rest of India to the South. Arunachal Pradesh is positioned in the Himalayan Mountains. The Tribe: Zakhring There is very little known about the Zakhring people. A census done in 1981 revealed that there were only 14 members of their tribe remaining. Living with the Zakhring people were another people group who identified themselves as the Meyor tribe, numbering around 240 people. It is presumed that these two tribes merged at one time due to their low numbers. If the population has continued to increase at a steady rate, the current population may be upwards of around 400, but if not, the population may have decreased to a startlingly low number, which could face the tribe with total extinction in the near future.

Interestingly, some sources suggest that neither of these names are the names in which they call themselves in their own language, which is the Charumba people. The Zakhring peoples are believed to have migrated from Tibet at one time, and have resided in this area ever since. Their religion is Buddhism which seems to be tinged with beliefs in a pre-Buddhist Bon religion. It is not known whether they have their own literature or written language. The Game Plan Expedition Arunachal Pradesh has been broken down into two trips throughout the year. The first trip was in early 2012 and served as more of a reconnaissance trip, including gathering information, visiting some of the places, talking to government officials, tour operators and the media. Upon returning and sifting through lots of information and deciding on the specific tribe to document, Jason K Powers has commenced the task of putting together a small expedition to head back to Arunachal Pradesh in the Fall of 2012. Due to permit problems the trip has been postponed to early 2013.

The decision to visit the Zakhring people was based on the fact that so little is known about this special tribe. Since they are also facing the possibility of total extinction, it is important to learn about such a unique people. Jason felt that it was not enough to simply go in and take photographs of these people, but to spend time with them and learn what he can about these people and share them with the world. Jason intends to do various new and state of the art styles of documentary photography to be displayed in galleries, as well as creating a photo coffee table book about the tribe. His photographs and research will also aid the research done by Rajiv Gandhi University. He also intends to work with a local publisher in Nagaland to publish an educational book on his findings. Where is India and the North East India? N.E. India is located just below Tibet/China, with Burma/Myanmar to the S.E. and Bangladesh to the S.W. with mainland India to the West of Bangladesh. About Jason K Powers For the past 11 years, Jason K. Powers has been a freelance photographer based in the Lakewood, Colorado area. He has covered a wide range of photography from weddings, modeling, headshots, sports, photojournalism, documentary, editorial, environmental portraiture and general portraiture. He also has extensive experience photographing tribal people and environments in the jungles of India. Jason has worked with clients from families, to major magazines, PR firms, modeling agencies and newspapers. While in Colorado he covers all of the Colorado high school sports State Championships for the Colorado High School Activities Association (CHSAA).

Additionally, he works for Brightroom Inc, the largest sports photography company in the country, covering marathons, triathlons and other races, including the New York City Marathon. Jasons love for the people of N.E. India, travel, adventure and the remote areas of the world has shifted his focus to documentary and ethnographic photography work these days. Since 2004, Jason has visited North East India many times. His first trip led him to the remote jungle villages of Meghalaya and Nagaland. According to one of those villages, his group was among the first foreigners to visit them since the late 1800s. In 2006 he co-founded the non-profit, North East India Project, where he served as President. NEIP worked with remote tribal villages in the jungles of North East India helping them to become more self-sustaining through means of healthcare, childrens education, water resource and economic development. One of his new photography projects in the making is taking him to the inner city of Denver, Colorados hidden homeless population to document their lives, and expose people to the homelessness they never see standing on the street corners.

Time Frame Hopes are to visit this tribe for around 21 days. The time-frame in 2013 intended is around the month of April. Long Range Goals Jasons primary intention on this expedition is documentary photography. He is working on several original, cutting-edge methods of photographing and presenting the expedition photographs as well as planning several exhibitions in galleries throughout the U.S.A. in 2013. He will also be putting out a photo coffee-table book with sidelining stories about the Zakhring tribe. A local Indian Publisher has already committed to publish an additional book which will result from the ethnographic research conducted by other expedition members.

After this first pilot expedition, the plans are to begin covering other remote, undocumented tribes in India and possibly around the world. With enough enthusiasm and support, the possibilities are endless!

Take Me On

Hello Explorers, My question is this: does anyone have a job that needs doing between January and April 2013? After a position working in the Alps fell through, I'm left looking for something interesting, and preferably unusual, to spend these four months doing. I'm willing to go almost anywhere, and do almost anything (legalities and moralities allowing).

I can drive, scuba dive, horse ride, and, less convincingly, sail. I'm an excellent photocopier, if it comes to that, but am after a bit of an adventure.I've spent much of my time travelling, and am an anthropologist by training (and calling!) so very much enjoy getting to know the locals of wherever it is I happen to be, and am quite comfortable wandering around by myself.

I've been writing a travel blog (www.indiegandolfi.com),which I very much enjoy!So would be very happy writing and/or editing. The only catch: I'm trying to fund my way through three more years at university, so am seeking a paid position! Having chosen to return to university and retrain as a midwife, to then hopefully work with MSF or the Red Cross, this is the one thing stopping me from extending my stay in Kyrgyzstan where I am currently working as an intern.

If you think you might have something, or know someone who might have something, please don't hesitate to get in touch!

Thanks, and happy exploring, Indie.

Charity education expedition - Any ideas for a location?

Any advice or ideas for a suitable location please!?

I'm running a 12-day charity educational expedition in 2013 for 20-25 year olds that incorporates the following elements. 1) Residential, 2) Adventure, 3) Community. Would like the residential and community phases to be based in huts/cabins/yurts/lavvus and the adventure phase to be a water based journey in Canoes. Any thoughts or suggestions on a specific location where you could also put me in touch with a local contact and where Canoes can be hired? People have mentioned Finland and Croatia but I need local contacts. Any other countries and suggestions welcome!

Thanks,

Scotty

A Trail run of over 1027 miles completed in 40 days

A Trail run of over 1027 miles completed in 40 days (equivalent of just under 40 marathons). The run was a solo challenge and the first complete circumnavigation of Wales on the newly opened Wales Coast Path and the Offa's Dyke Path, with ascents and descents totalling 40,000 meters.

It was carried out to raise money for Velindre Cancer Centre and Gozo CCUFoundation, in memory of my parents. 4 pairs of trail shoes, some epic blisters, questionable navigation, awesome scenery, a mental and physical battle and some freaky weather situations later, 10k was raised for charity and the bug for adventure was well and truly caught!

The fundraising is continuing and a new challenge is in the pipeline. www.justgiving.com/dragonrun1027 http://ultrarunningworld.co.uk/dragon-run-1027/

www.walescoastpath.gov.uk"

Antarctica Tour, requesting recommendations for kit

I'd like recommendations for the best kit for a few weeks exploring Antarctica, half by aircraft, and half via the Overland Traverse.

austinbunton@gmail.com

Solo Wilderness Ski Expedition

Few places in this world are without wifi and mobile signal, Lapland (arctic Norway, Finland and Sweden) is one of them. My expedition was solo. Heading off into the isolated tundra and mountains, the only inhabitants pockets of Sami reindeer herders. I skied through approximately 800kms of Europe's last wilderness. It would've be nice to go further afield, but this is right on our doorstep. No expensive permits, nor long haul flights. It's just leaving home and then being immersed in silent ice. Or not so silent. This nature is full of birds, moose, reindeer, even wolverine. And the howl of the wind. May was full of blizzards and cracking ice. I imagined that as time drove, the weather would improve. Not so. Winter raged on, and visibility remained limited. When the world opened up, frozen lakes extended for Swedish miles or huge mountains ringed national parks.

The only company other than wild animals was the occasional snow mobile or dog team. Otherwise I traipsed on, pulling a laden pulk. Inside my sledge was everything I needed to survive: multiple maps (I used the old school method of map compass), tent, stove to melt snow for water, food, down clothing and headtorch. By May, the nights became short. Occasionally I skied long days until 3am or overnight and although I often preferred not to use a torch, it also proved useful for tricky navigation.

If you would like to learn more, see what I'm up to now or invite me to come and speak, please contact me through Explorers Connect. 

Scientific Exploration Society Awards Scheme

It is a commonly held misconception that the days of the great exploratory expeditions are over. Programmes such as the SES Award Scheme are vital to fuel the efforts of young explorers, to facilitate the projects of the next generation of expedition leaders, and to continue the long and proud British tradition of stepping off the map.

Monty Halls The Scientific Exploration Society Awards Scheme is intended to offer support to an innovative individual who has put together a team and a plan for an expedition for scientific research. He or she should share the pioneering commitment of Col John Blashford-Snell OBE, by inspiring other people to go on and do great things.

Applications are invited by 1st December and by 1st August each year, and grants are generally of 500,sponsored awards may be higher, please see website for fulldetails: www.ses-explore.org/awards

Retracing the footsteps of Isabella Bird in 1889

Isabella Bird is the fourth early female explorer that I have retraced the journey of and filmed. I shall begin writing book shortly but am keen to recreate the journeys of Florence Baker in Uganda and Kate Marsden riding across Siberia as part of it.

The Isabella Bird expedition went very well and she was such a good choice her 1889 journey is documented in detail in her book and it was so interesting to follow her journey through such an unchanged landscape into Nubra. Ladakh is stunning and the mountains appear to float majestically above the valleys that I passed and as the going got tougher our lovely team that consisted of 7 ponies and a Tibetan refugee pony man, two young Nepalese cooks and a Ladakhi guide who had so much experience were there to make the going easier, (the hardest part was climbing to 5,400m up a glacier!). I was so thrilled to have found the palace in Hundar described in her book although it had sunk a floor into the ground and I have written a report about it for the Indian Archaeological Department so that it can be saved.

I met the Rev Gergan whose family once owned it but did not know where it was and it was his great, great grandfather who had escorted Isabella into the Nubra valley all those years ago and his front garden that she had pitched her enormous tent in Leh to recover from the long Yak ride back. It only left the audience with the King of Ladakh to organise, which she had done as she left....and I had my wish and got a ten minute audience with him at the Stok Palace. Our stories matched at that point, room with carpets, fresh apricots and apple juice served, the Gyalpo hardly spoke.

So I think I became Isabella Bird by the end! I shall be talking about this journey at The Galley Wine Bar at 133 Hotwells Road in Bristol at 7.30 on Friday 26th October in aid of The Stroke Association and everyone is welcome. "

Great Salmon Tour

Last year I started an effort to put together a series of global expeditions for 2014 that I called the Great Salmon Tour. Unfortunately, unsuccessful efforts to raise money and put together a dedicated team tanked the project. Thus, instead I had to embark on my own adventure and get a paid job working on recovering sturgeon and create habitat for native fish species in the Mississippi River. However, I have not given up on the project to travel around the world to document the diversity of salmon fishes and how local communities are linked socially and culturally to their native salmonids. What I need is a partner(s) that will be dedicated to help realizing the project.

The person(s) should have experience or at least stamina and will to work to make expeditions happen, from idea to finish, including working towards getting funding. What I bring is scientific legitimacy (i am a biologist with many years of experience), contacts for access to areas, and a developed concept. The idea is to let audiences experience through film, pictures, and articles the search for the salmon fishes and the ways they nourish cultural, spiritual, and personal relationships with human communities. The aim for 2013 was to visit Arctic Canada and Inuit fishing for Arctic charr, Sierra Madre Occidental in Mexico to find the Mexican lost trout, Lake Baikal in Russia to join fishermen fishing for the famous omul and its spawning runs in rivers, and to visit Slovenia to join fly fishermen fishing for the rare Danube river salmon in the frigid European winter. I also have contacts for finding the tigris trout in Kurdish Iraq but that may be a little sketchy at the moment. The aim is to raise awareness of the diversity of salmon fishes, the threat to this diversity, and the diversity of cultures that people has forged with the different species. When we lose biodiversity, we not only lose species we also lose our own cultural diversity.

Started in 2010, the GST traveled to remote villages along Yukon River to cover the salmon subsistence fishery of native Alaskans, to not so remote California to meet with small boat salmon fishermen and women to talk about the status of salmon and how they see their future, to mountainous areas in Bosnia and Herzegovina to meet the scientist studying the unique diversity of trout in the Balkans, and to nomads on the Mongolian steppe to learn about how taimen salmon is incorporated into local folklore and faith.

Shipping companies from UK to Canadian Arctic?

I am trying to ship a crate of approximately 400kg to the Canadian Arctic.

Which are the shipping companies out there that would do this? And if anyone has done this recently, can you recommend a particular company?

E-publishing & editors for expedition books

I'm looking for an editor for the book I've just written on our last expedition (A Short Walk in the Gambian Bush - a 930km African odyssey) and indeed it edited before I put it out there.

I'm also thinking of e-publishing (with photos too)...any ideas,,tips, suggestions would be much appreciated.

Many thanks,

Helen

Expedition Yacht sail or motor

Hi,

Looking for information on an expedition yacht (power or sail). 50 to 100 foot with a RIB for filming in Greenland/Iceland. The expedition is a mixture of kayaking and diving around the Greenland Coast.

Our biggest issue is it's fairly last minute. Our original support vessel has had mechanical issues so we're looking for a replacement. The expedition is only 3 weeks around the end of August/beginning of September. Any information gratefully received.

Many thanks,

Alasdair Boden

Has anyone hiked to the Giants Of Manpupuner

I am looking for advice and or guidance toward a possible trip a friend and I are considering in Russia.

I and a friend are looking to travel from mid to end January in 2014 giving aprox' three to three and a half weeks to travel to the famous hidden wonder the Giants of Manpupuner (eg:http://int.rgo.ru/news/the-manpupuner-rock-formations/ ) It is approximately 100km from the nearest settlement and we are planning to hike or ski tour to the location and return. I was wondering if anyone had done this themselves and or is able to provide details of the likely weather conditions present in late january in the area and if reaching the starting location (the nearest town) is a reasonable consideration in this time of year.

Any advice what so ever would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,

Will

Suitable venue for incredible Adventure Film?

Hello there,

I am looking for a venue to host a rather special evening. I am organising a film showing (Hanuman Airlines) on behalf of Sano Babu who was voted the National Geographic Adventurer of the year 2012 along with his equally crazy expedition partner Lakpa. In April 2011, they launched a paraglider from Mount Everest's summit and kayaked the Ganges to the Indian Ocean. Babu had never climbed before, Lakpa couldnt swim, and neither had seen the ocean before. Babu is in the UK for a short time only to show his film, answer many questions as possible and generally enchant audiences with his message.

The requirements for the venue: Have thecapacityofat least50 - ideally 100 Have a projector, PA system, seats etc! Location Central or south londoni deally but would consider else where. Doesn't need to be fancy but needs to do the job well! Have availability 21st/22nd or Aug - Maybe there are adventure clubs and organisation that would have a venue? I am also looking at venues outside of London so if anyone has any ideas or organisations that would like to host him them do let me know.

Kind Regards,

Graham

Kathmandu - Kashgar - Kyrgyzstan overland

Hi everyone,

In 2013 I'm planning an overland adventure (by any means other than flying) from Bangalore to Birmingham. My proposed route will take me through Nepal, Tibet, Western China and then into the Stans. I've read on my travel forums that if coming from Nepal, only a 15-21 day visa will be issued for Tibet. An existing Chinese visa will be ripped up. It is my understanding the the Tibet visa can be changed to a Chinese one when leaving Tibet, but the 15-21 day rule still applies. So that means you have very little time to get out of China. However, I see a number of overland tours do this route and seem to take much longer over it. So I hoped that somebody may be able to advise me whether there is a potential way around this?

Many thanks,

Ed

edwardjfhewitt@gmail.com