Explorers Connect

How do I approach/ get sponsorship for an expedition?

FundingBelinda KirkComment

I have a plan for an expedition which I think a university may be interested in providing financial sponsorship for. However, I have no previous experience of organising an expedition.

The expedition would be dependent on some financial funding, so it would not be possible to go ahead with the organising process without it.

How should I approach the university to ask if they would be interested, and at what stage of the process? As much detail as possible would be extremely helpful.

Thanks

Geoscientific, Mountaineering and Photographic Expedition to Peru

Trip ReportBelinda KirkComment

Expedition background, members, team and partners: A group of three Romanian climbers, (one of which studying Bsc Environmental Geoscience at the University of Edinburgh formed this years National Geographic Young Explorers team to carry a scientific and mountaineering expedition in Peru.

The expedition was comprised of three members: Sorin Rechitan (expedition photographer), Aurel Salasan (mountaineering and safety) and Sergiu Jiduc (logistic leader). It was funded in part by the National Geographic Society through a Young Explorers Grant as well as private companies and individuals from Arad, Romania. Other organizations with whom we collaborate includes: The National Snow and Ice Data Center, Boulder, Colorado, USA (NSIDC), The Mountain Institute, Deutcher Alpenverein Club and Austrian Alpine Club. Expedition aims: 1) to reproduce older photographs made by the 1932, 1936 and 1939 Alpenverein Expeditions to Cordillera Blanca and Cordillera Huayhaush of Peru. 2) to compare the old and new photographs and interpret the landscape changes that occurred in the last 80 years. 3) to identify such changes in glacial, vegetation cover as well as human impact evolution 4) to film and photograph the entire expedition, focusing on field activities such as research method, video interviews with local people, climbing etc. in order to create a high quality documentary and photographic exhibitions 5) to provide interested organizations such as the NSIDC and Mountain Institute with updated photographic and video material.

Brief Description of research/activities conducted during expedition: After our arrival in Huaraz, we met with our contact in Peru, Mr Christian Silva, mountain guide, with whom we identified the photo locations more precisely using his knowledge of the area, GPS coordinates and Alpenverein maps. After sorting out logistics we spent three days climbing above 4000m in Cordillera Negra to reproduce six panoramas. Next, we visited a few valleys such as Cohup, Yanganuco and Paron, where we looked at flooding, glacial and vegetation characteristics reproducing more Alpenverein photographs. We stopped the field research for a few days as Aurel Salasan and Sergiu Jiduc climbed Artensonraju 6025m via the South East Face, D+, 800m, 45-75. The climb has been video recorded. Next, we moved to Cordillera Huyahuash, where we hired four donkeys, a horse and a donkey driver and trekked around Jirishanca, Yerupaja and Sula Grande for six days and reproduced a limited number of photographs. After two days of rest, Aurel Salasan and Sergiu Jiduc attempted a serious climb on Yerupaja 6617m, via the West Face 1000m level difference, the second highest mountain in Peru.

This proved to be a very dangerous and demanding climb and due to the high objective hazards (avalanches, bergschrunds, overhanging seracs) we were forced to hide in a crevice for seven hours at 6200m. Eventually, we abseiled the west face using V-threads and snow picks. Back to safety, we left Cordillera Huayhuash and moved to Santa Cruz valley in Cordillera Blanca. Here, we reproduced more photographs and climbed the beautiful Alpamayo mountain 5947m via the French Direct Route 600m D+/TD, 65-90. In Huaraz, we were involved in a social program with Changes for New Hope an organization preoccupied with the improvement of the lives of children living in the Peruvian Andes. During the last week, we visited Lima, Cuzco, Machu Picchu, Puno and Lake Titicaca with the Los Uros floating islands. On the 19th of September we left Peru and after 20 hours of travelling, we arrived in Arad, Romania Expedition outcomes and benefits:

The expedition has been a great success, managing to reproduce around 23 Alpenverein photographs, and taking hundreds more with great scientific importance. Interviews with local people have pointed out serious problems regarding the illegal mining and contamination of the areas visited. Preliminary comparison of photographs shows great changes especially those related to glacial characteristics.

The expedition material is being processed by National Geographic Society and our team and will be transformed into scientific papers, travel journal, photographic exhibitions and probably a TV documentary. The NSIDC and the Mountain Institute are interested to update their database with our photographic material and last but not least, all expedition members have learned a lot about running a scientific research project and collaborating with science based institutions as well as people from a different country.

Invading Krak des Chevaliers

OtherBelinda KirkComment

Atop a large hill some 700 meters above sea level and overlooking a lush green valley in Western Syria, stands the magnificent Castle of the Kurds. Once described by Lawrence of Arabia as ...perhaps the best preserved and most wholly admirable castle in the world, it leaves modern day visitors as impressed now as it had T.E. Lawrence himself a century ago.

Built between 1142 and 1271 the Krak, or Castle, now a UNESCO world heritage site is still recognised as one of the best specimens of a Crusader Castles in the world. Set against the lovely hilly landscape, the Krak from a distance really looks like something out of a fairy tale and even though you're nowhere near the English countryside, you cant help thoughts of Camelot engulfing your imagination. The rounded towers that bulge out of the thick curtain walls not only add to the character and unusual appearance, but more importantly fortify the castle in a much more efficient way. The thoughts were that these rounded edges, not only eliminated the weakness of corners, however also provided deflection of any incoming projectiles.

The objects would no longer impact at a 90 degree angle, reducing the impact force. On approach this mammoth of a structure just grows and the true scale of the thickness and bulkiness of the entire fortification leaves you with a sense of insignificance and bewilderment. Doors open from 9am an entrance as of Easter 2011 will cost you S150 (approx 1.70). As you enter, its almost as if you're being swallowed up by the ancient masonry when you progress through. A stone path with a gradual gradient channels you through the walls, past a gift shop and eventually leads you to an opening where the sun above greets your eyes. When you reach the courtyard there is an abundance to explore; stairs running to different levels of the ruins, walls to scramble from, and perhaps best of all its making your way through the narrow spiral staircases in the towers and reaching one of the Kraks high points. If you can withstand the wind then you're in for a treat. With nothing of real significance within miles of where you're standing, some of Syrias best kept countryside is in your sights with communities dotted around the the undulating landscape with spectacular views of the adjacent village below. Within the inner walls, a large labyrinthine of enclosures fill the ruins - where even natural light struggles to penetrate. No artificial lighting exists anywhere within the compound, instead, the few rays that do make their way through the barriers are funnelled through the gaps, cracks and windows. Almost all parts of the castle are accessible but some are so pitch black that you cant see your hand before of your face.

There are various stretchers that you can either fall down or walk into so best to bring a torch. The darkness also plays host to midges and insects which shun the sun and heat found on the outside. Remarkably, if your quiet, despite the wind and altitude, you can hear echoes from wasps buzzing through these areas. It is all a very refreshing sight to still be able to visit a castle in its prime. Many more examples of such spectacular architecture and history are too often ruined by the modern day luxuries of electricity, guides and bound by health and safety outlines. Here you left to Doinit yourself. You can really spend hours here, admiring the architecture as well as the surroundings, which provides for some great hiking. For castle enthusiasts, you'll be pleased to hear that this is a series of fortifications in this region built to defend the Homs Gap. While they don't quite match the Krak des Chevaliers reputation, reports suggest that they are as much fun to explore as the headline grabber. Reaching the castle is pretty straight forward; its location will usually require transit through the nearby city of Homs, approximately 40 miles on the outskirts. Simply arrive at the cities bus station where local taxi drivers are well aware what most tourists come here to see. Just strolling around, you should be able to hear them biding for your attention with the asking words Krak? Krak? (English: castle? castle?).

If this fails then simply ask them. Most will be more than happy which in a shared taxi (usually small Toyota van) with a local family should be cost you about S800 (9). The journey should take you the best part of 40 minutes and the driver will drop you in front of the main entrance. Buses also service this route. Either way that you travel, be sure to negotiate a return time with the driver or check when the last bus back is as or you could find yourself standing by the roadside for a ride to come long. While many visitors come to see the Krak on day trip it would really be a missed opportunity if you weren't to spend a night here. Clearly visible from the Castle, only a short walk away and nestled along an opposite valley wall, directly facing the Krak, stands the Bebers Hotel (25USD ).

It's restaurant boosts an impressive meze (selection of small dishes served starters) followed by whatever the staff recommend. The restaurant faces the castle making it a great place to kick back with a bottle of Syrian Bottled beer and watch the sun go down. When deciding which room to pick, ask for room 101. In the morning you'll be able to walk out on your own balcony and be greeted by the magnificent Krak des Chevaliers as this room is in the perfect position, directly across, leaving a lasting impression on any occupant and a sight that has greeted visitors for centuries.

www.doinitonline.com

Syria is currently experiencing severe political unrest. The FCO advise against all travel.

Diving Bikini's Nuclear Fleet

Trip ReportBelinda KirkComment

The nuclear wrecks of Bikini Atoll are universally recognised as one of the top ten dive sites in the world. Sadly there is no longer a dive operation on Bikini, but back in 1999 when there was, I had the opportunity to experience diving this incredible submerged museum to the atomic age. Lying 4500 miles off the west coast of the United States, at the northern end of the Marshall Islands, Bikini Atoll was the site of the fourth and fifth nuclear bomb detonations, in mid 1946. 73 target ships were assembled in the atolls lagoon and subjected to two atomic blasts in Operation_Crossroads.

Nine of the target ships remain on the 50m deep lagoon floor, a couple of miles offshore in the depression left by the second (Baker) test. In May 1999 Chris Lewis and I, both experienced technical wreck divers, made the pilgrimage to the Marshall Islands. The journey to Bikini took us from London, Heathrow, over the glacier covered mass of Greenland, across the USA for a short stop at Los Angeles and then on to Hawaii. Here we had a day to explore the museums and monuments at Pearl Harbour before continuing our journey to Majuro, capital of the Marshall Islands, crossing the International Date Line on the way. With our body clocks now completely messed up, we managed a few beers and an overnight rest before the weekly Air Marshall Islands flight out to Bikini, still 600 miles of island hopping away. The landing strip at Bikini is on the island of Eneu, with an eight mile boat ride to Bikini Island itself.

The substantial excess baggage cost to transport our diving kit from Majuro to Bikini had precluded the option to add the weight of a case or two of beers for the week ahead (not that drinking and diving should be mixed). Big mistake! We arrived to discover that the boat skipper had just consumed the very last of the beer supplies on the island! Even more distressing was the later realisation that we were never actually charged for the excess baggage!! The diving operation was set up to cater for up to 12 divers, with air conditioned accommodation, air compressor and nitrox (oxygen enriched air) mixing facilities. With the nearest recompression chamber 1700 miles away on Johnston Island and a once weekly flight in and out of Bikini, diving practices had to be completely safe. All the wrecks were permanently buoyed and decompression stops were carried out a trapeze suspended from the dive boat, with oxygen rich surface supplied gas. As it turned out, Chris and I were the only divers there for the week!

There are only a handful of inhabitants on the island; a couple of environmental monitoring people, a few caterers and cleaners and the few running the diving operation. The main dive boat, Bravo, was broken down when we arrived, leaving only a landing craft to dive from (and transport us from the airstrip), at least for the first part of the week. Lucky there were only two of us! The most celebrated of the ships sunk in the lagoon are probably the aircraft carrier USS Saratoga, the battleships USS Arkansas and HIJMS Nagato. These ships are all huge and necessitate quite a few dives on each to gain a reasonable appreciation of them. As I mentioned, Chris and I were the only divers there, so our guide, Anton, was able to indulge us. We dived the Saratoga 5 times, there being so much to explore on this 900 foot long aircraft carrier, with access to the aircraft hanger decks, still with aircraft present in varying states of preservation, in the company of 1200lb bombs and the like!

Other dives took us through the accommodation and recreation areas, barbers shop, radio and other control rooms and the bridge area as well as to an Avenger aircraft lying on the lagoon bed someway off the aft port quarter, returning to the main wreck along a line of anchor chain to take in the enormous propellers. The upper superstructure of this wreck rises to within 12m of the surface from the 52m at the propellers, making for some truly spectacular diving! The Japanese battleship Nagato, Admiral Yamamotos flagship at Pearl Harbour, lies upside-down with her four massive props and twin rudders uppermost. The decks are suspended a few metres away from the lagoon bottom by the central superstructure, enabling access to the giant 18 inch guns and their turrets in-between. Some excellent dives through the passages and rooms within the ships interior were undertaken. The bridge structure has been broken off, presumably striking the bed of the lagoon as she rolled over, and lies stretched out to the port side of the wreck, making it easy to explore.

The US battleship Arkansas sustained significant damage from the undersea (Baker) detonation and the massively thick armoured hull can be seen crumpled like paper from the shock wave. She again is turned turtle with the large main guns protruding from between the decks and lagoon bed. The lesser well known, smaller wrecks make equally good dives but are easy to explore in one or two visits. During the week we also dived the destroyers Lamson Anderson, the transport Carlisle and the submarine Apogon. All the wrecks, to varying degrees, exhibit damage demonstrative of the immense power of a nuclear blast. A very unique and sobering experience. As the week progressed, the visibility in the lagoon improved and on a number of the dives we could see that we were regularly being watched by cruising sharks. The main dive boat was encouraged back into life, making the 2 mile journey to and from the wrecks a lot more comfortable than the landing craft! Entertainment on the island was pretty non-existent.

The small collection of buildings that remain of the settlement, built to accommodate the US military during the nuclear tests, includes a small cinema which we had all to ourselves. Sadly though, not a great selection of films. We were fed pretty well in the rather basic canteen, the two of us with plenty of choice of where to sit each mealtime. The bar, situated picturesquely on the white coral beach overlooking the azure blue waters of the lagoon, was completely dry! At the end of the week, we were sad to leave behind the stunning wrecks and classic tropical island scenery of Bikini Atoll, but very glad of a few cold beers when we reached the scruffy environs of Majuro, our first stop on the three day journey home.

These were the days before the advent of consumer digital camera technology and between us, Chris and I obtained a collection of not particularly high quality but memorable still and video images from above and below water. Some of Chris' stills have been included here.

The video story I made of the trip as a personal record can be viewed at: https://vimeo.com/37944683 (17 mins long well worth a watch if you're a wreck diving fan). We both feel very privileged and fortunate to have had such an opportunity and amazing experience."

Kilimanjaro February 2013

CommunityBelinda KirkComment

From 8th - 18th February Alex Ledger will be climbing Mt Kilimanjaro and hopefully Paragliding off the summit. He is climbing with 360 Expeditions, a British Expedition company, and there are slots available for those who just want to do the climb but also slots for Paraglider pilots.