Looking for: advice & potential team-mates to plan expedition across Antarctica

Hi - My aim is to cross Antarctica (or similar) in the next 18 months or so.I am primarily looking for advice from those who do or have done expeditions in Antarctica on the process steps required to plan and execute an expedition in Antarctica.I would like advice on budget, time and resources and then look at feasible distance/route options (coast to south pole, total crossing, coast to south pole return etc.).

I also want to do a unique expedition so advice on what has not been done yet is welcome! Next I am looking for people who might want to be team-mates and who have the ability to get the funds and who have a genuine ambition to do such an adventure and the inevitable tyre-dragging round Richmond Park.

Thank you

Grants: Polar and Arctic Expeditions

Scott Polar Research Institute Arctic Club Award The Arctic Club Award is given to an expedition selected from those who apply to the Gino Watkins Memorial Fund. It is given, usually annually, to a sporting rather than a scientific expedition composed of young people. Up to 1,500, deadline January 31st each year. www.spri.cam.ac.uk/about/funding/ginowatkins/form.pdf Augustine Courtauld Trust Assisting expeditions to the Arctic or Antarctic, up to 2,000, deadline March 1st each year. www.augustinecourtauldtrust.org

The Gino Watkins Memorial Fund The Gino Watkins Memorial Fund, under the joint trusteeship of the University of Cambridge and the Royal Geographical Society, gives grants towards expeditions that meets its objectives of guiding and inspiring enterprising young people towards scientific research and exploration in the polar regions. The Fund is grateful to the Augustine Courtauld Trust for its continuing financial support. The Fund was set up in 1933 in the memory of Henry George (Gino) Watkins who had drowned, whilst kayaking, off the coast of East Greenland the previous summer. The purpose of the Fund is to inspire and guide enterprising, particularly young, people towards exploration and research in the polar regions. http://www.spri.cam.ac.uk/about/funding/ginowatkins/

Andrew Croft Memorial Fund The Andrew Croft Memorial Fund was established in 1998 to preserve for future generations the life, spirit and hopes of Colonel Andrew Croft DSO OBE, Arctic explorer and wartime commando. Aims at supporting the advancement and education of young people by the provision of grants in support of Arctic expeditions. http://www.acmf.org.uk/

The Arctic Club Award The Arctic Club Award was established at the start of the new millennium, to support young enthusiasts on adventurous expeditions to the arctic regions. The fund is administered by the The Gino Watkins Memorial Fund. Each year they can designate one or more expeditions as recipients of an Arctic Club Award. The chosen expeditions receive a combined grant from the Gino Watkins Fund and the Arctic Club Award. Members of each expedition will be invited to the next annual Arctic Club dinner. http://www.arcticclub.org.uk/award.html

Scottish Arctic Club The Club has a small expedition fund from which it can make modest awards to encourage young people to explore the Arctic. The size and number of awards made is determined by the relevance of the application and the funds currently held. Awards may be given to either individuals or small groups. Awards favour small independent expeditions being undertaken by people under 30 years of age with strong Scottish connections. Expeditions must be to the Arctic. http://www.scottisharcticclub.org.uk/wp/expedition-grants/ T

Nordkapp : Continental Europe's most northerly point

Nordkapp and Europes Most Northern Point High up in Norways polar region lies Nordkapp. Translated to North Cape its often yet inaccurately credited as Europes most northern point. Nordkapp is essentially a 300odd metre cliff which towers above the Berets Sea.

At the top, sits the visitor centre, restaurant, handful of monuments and most notably a carved out passage leading to an opening in the cliff face where you can view the ocean. Nordkapp is well on the tourist trail, reachable by a single road (E69) which terminates at the visitor centre. Entrance to the visitor entre is 275 nok (26) per person. For the purists whom aren't satisfied by the latitude on offer by Nordkapps visitor centre, then you'll be pleased to know that many adventurous souls press on to the neighbouring point of Knivskjellodden, which is in fact over a kilometre further north, and a stronger contender for Europe's most northern point. Reaching Knivskjellodden will not be as straight forward as arriving at Nordkapp but the rewards are greater.

The route starts at a small car park about 7km south of Nordkapp, and runs for 8km (5 miles) to the finishing point. A small information point maps out the area. From the start point, one should follow the red Ts and stone cairns which are marked out along the route. Whilst a map may not be necessary in clear weather conditions if fog sets in (which could happen) suddenly the next marker will not always be visible. The actual trail itself isn't as well defined as you may expect, meaning its quite possible to get lost. Carrying some form of GPS device capable of getting you back to the car park would be a wise move. The three hour hike will take you across a relatively shallow gradient past lakes, muddy bogs and grassy plateaus before making a steep descent to sea level.

Shortly afterwards, there's a small stream which runs into the sea. The modest bridge is the only evidence that man has ever stepped foot in this part of the world and its recommended to take a few minutes to cast your eyes around the spectacular situation you're in and to fully absorb the sense of remoteness. Looking around, you'll be surrounding valley walls and only the ocean in front sparks your intuition to head towards it. The final section can be tricky on the ankles as it hugs the coastline taking you along slanted rocky shores for a further kilometre. The end point is marked with a metal box containing a guest book, where you can record your achievement and join the list of people that have undertaken such a memorable experience before you. At this point, its possible to walk right down to the sea a further few metres away, before you truly can not walk any further. Beyond the horizon just over 1300 miles away lies the north pole.

Returning to your starting point is along the same route so factor that in. Though its a three hour hike, its also a three hour hike back totalling 16km (10 miles) of walking. The harsh winters mean that the only viable option to embark on a trip to Nordkapp and/or Knivskjellodden is over the summer months. The road to Nordkapp is closed in the winter. Bear in mind that the summer months in the Polar Regions wont necessarily mean warm and sunny. The extreme latitudes mean that visitors can experience 24hour daylight, so take on this track at anytime of the day. Midnight sun is visible between 14 May-29 July. So, after all this, can one say that theyve been to the most northern point of Europe? No well, sort of. Both Nordkapp and Knivskjellodden are positioned on the island of Magerya which is joined to the mainland by a 4.27 mile undersea tunnel (tolled at 145 NOK (16) for a car plus an additional 47 NOK (5) per adult each way).

Being positioned on an island means that strictly speaking its not part of the mainland Europe. The actual northern most point of mainland Europe lies at a lower latitude, at Cape Nordkinn. This article focuses on taking you beyond the most northern point in mainland Europe, though the reality of it is that there's not much in it. Which ever northern most point your journey takes you to, you will be taken to the frontiers of human settlement, the surreal surroundings will leave you amazed and it will take some time for your accomplishment to truly sink in.

E-publishing & editors for expedition books

I'm looking for an editor for the book I've just written on our last expedition (A Short Walk in the Gambian Bush - a 930km African odyssey) and indeed it edited before I put it out there.

I'm also thinking of e-publishing (with photos too)...any ideas,,tips, suggestions would be much appreciated.

Many thanks,

Helen

Wings of Kilimanjaro - The reconnaissance climb

"I had such a brilliant time climbing Kilimanjaro!! I loved it. Its a mountain Ive wanted to climb for years and for many reasons it was everything Id hoped for and more. Unlike Everest Kilimanjaro is accessible to most people. It can be done in a week, its realistic to be able to train for it with a full time job, its not too expensive, its challenging without being crazy and its beautiful. The reason this trip came about was because I was part of the Wings of Kilimanjaro reconnaissance team.

Wings of Kilimanjaro (WoK) is an event that will see up to 200 paraglider and handglider pilots attempt to fly from the summit early next year and in doing so raise over $1million for charity. We didnt fly this time!! Kilimanjaro is in a national park and the permit to fly has only been issued for the main event next year. This trip was to check out the routes to the top, the camps, possible take off sites and to work on event logistics. There were seven of us including myself Adrian McRae Founder of Wok Peter Bowyer Safety officer for the event Peter Grieg Photographer Jayme Moye Journalist Tim Katya Leach Pilot and locals with insider info! We spent 8 days on Kilimanjaro this is longer than most trips. We had to allow time to circumnavigate the mountain, visit different camps, make sure we acclimatised well and explore all of our options.

We summited the mountain and spent time looking at the possible take off areas. There are several options but their suitability will depend hugely on conditions when we are there in January. It was a clear blue sky day and the clouds were below us. Stunning! At 5,895m the mountain is over 1000m higher than Mont Blanc and should not be underestimated! Its definitely not a climb, its a trek and there is no need for crampons. You are not on ice or snow but the effects of altitude can be felt from around 3000m. Whilst lots of people do make it to the summit many people become ill and don't make it. I was on this trip because I wanted to see the mountain for myself and because I wanted to know exactly what WoK was about, the people behind it and how the money raised was being spent. Its one thing organising a climb and fly when you are doing it for yourself (as I did on Mt Blanc) but its quite a different matter organising up to 200 pilots plus a support team of up to 1000 people. Was this even a realistic idea?! Adrian McRae is an intelligent man with big dreams and, I believe, has the right components to make this a brilliant event. He has been working on this project for a few years now and has invested large amounts of his own time, effort and money to give it the best possible chance of success.

After many visits and time spent in the county he has an understanding of how things work in Africa. It is no easy task dealing with and understanding how the authorities function! Peter Bowyer is a very experienced pilot. He has been instructing for years and has worked as safely officer on many events. Having spent time with Peter on the expedition I know that he will have no issues with making the decision to fly or not. If the conditions arent right or the pilots are not fit to fly Peter will not permit them to do so. There will be a minimum of one helicopter present on the mountain should a rescue be necessary. Leading the expedition was Silvano Hamisi Mvungi, the owner and chief guide of Top of Africa Expeditions and guide partner for WoK. The logistics for this trip went smoothly and Im hopeful that this company has the staff, equipment and ability to handle the huge group that will be on the mountain next year. I think it might be worth remembering though that TIA.. this is Africa! and perhaps all people involved in the main event should pack a good amount of patience and understanding, especially for the first few days of the hike as everyone finds their pace and this large group settles into things!

Peter Greig is a wonderfully creative guy and has been very involved with WoK since the beginning and has worked closely with Adrian McRae. He documented this trip and his stunning photos can be seen by clicking here I met the team, I climbed the mountain. so what do I think about WoK?? I think its an absolutely incredible project with a remarkable team of people behind it. I'm excited to be a pilot and to be part of the main event. The mountain is beautiful, the route is good, there are camp sites that will accommodate the WoK group and there are good take off sites if the weather plays ball! The money raised will be going to very good causes and the WoK team are actively encouraging people to stay longer or re-visit Tanzania to get involved with the projects that the money will be funding. I think it is critical that people have realistic expectations. This is the largest group of people that Kilimanjaro has ever seen and as I mentioned before this is Africa!

Things probably wont run smoothly 100% of the time. Climbing mountains and paragliding are both sports that involve risk and elements that are out of our control. To climb the mountain and fly off the top would be great but that is not a given. The real glory in being a part of WoK is that you are part of a journey and a team that will see you try to climb a wonderful mountain and attempt to fly off the top. That may or may not happen, but what will happen is that the combined amounts of money that we all raise and donate will make a positive difference to many peoples lives and that is quite simply incredible.

www.squashfalconer.com"

The Zugspitze

The Zugspitze via Reintal Theres a lot more to Bavaria than beer, bratwurst and the local population sporting their traditional lederhosen (for men) and dirndl (for women) dress. For history buffs there are castles, for skiers there are plenty of slopes and for hikers or climbers, well, you have the Zugspitze which, at 2,962 metres, marks Germanys highest point.

There are a handful of routes to the summit from both Austria and Germany - of course if its just the view you're after then you can get a cable car up to the top in about 10 minutes (49.50 Euro return). Two of the more popular routes start on the German side. Hllental (Valley of Hell) is the preferred option for many. Its a shorter, more direct route and is said to be more interesting; what makes it so interesting is that you'll need crampons to cross the Hllentalferner Glacier, bridge the odd crevasse and the route requires the use of a harness to negotiate a via ferrata (Italian for iron road) or more appropriate considering our location, a klettersteig (German for climbing path).

With this in mind (and taking our limited experience with crampons and harnesses into account) we decide to take the longer, and probably more off the beaten track, route via the Reintal valley. In the days preceding our trip, we told people of our intended route, only to be met with pretty much the same response each time - Do you realise how long it takes? followed by, You know there are huts where you can sleep along the way. Indeed we are well aware that this route can take over 10 hours and, even more pressingly, were aware that the last cable car down is about 4.30pm, so we know its going to be a very early start. Our journey starts in the Bavarian town of Garmisch-Partenkirchen, or simply (though incorrectly) Garmisch. Wonderfully surrounded by alpine landscape, this place has a real charm about it. Typical Bavarian lodges, their balconies lined with colourful flowers, provide a lovely backdrop for a walk around town.

Even at the height of summer its easily to imagine what a magical winter wonderland this place must be. Accommodation and services are plentiful. We stay at the appropriately named Hostel 2962 the height of the peak weve come to summit. Following a 15-minute walk from our hostel, by 5am we find ourselves approaching the 1936 Winter Olympic stadium, where the trail officially begins. Our open space quickly disappears as the path nestles between a rocky wall and the fast flowing river. Before we know it were in a deep and narrow canyon cut into the surrounding rock, water roaring below through its narrow base, with water falling from the walls above - this is truly an amazing display of white water and vegetation far above you. The paths are cut into the wall and in parts lead through small tunnels alongside the water. The canyon twists and turns in the dawn twilight, allowing just a fraction of the light to penetrate through. Just being in the presence of such energy is enough to get our hearts pounding and fully wake us from our early morning daze. Its really tempting to stick around and play with different shutter speeds on our camera (and attempt to hold it steady) but weve got a strict time scale to stick to.

We've a long day ahead of us and the last thing we want is to get to the top of the peak, only to find weve missed the last cable car back down in 11 hours time. Its not long before were back in the open; the river opens up and slows down, the surrounding walls begin to widen to reveal a forested valley. The hike from here on could be considered quite leisurely - if wed not been on this time scale. For the first couple of hours the trek takes us over a well-defined gravel path. Gradually the path rises and falls again, running alongside the lush green forested valley walls before redirecting back to the fast flowing river. Occasionally a bridge takes us over to the other bank then back again. The dark of the early morn has lifted, but were sheltered from direct sunlight by the valley walls, and the air remains refreshing cool. We keep up the pace; hardly noticing the subtle narrowing of the path as our team naturally falls in line and makes its way through the depths of this marvellous valley. Before we know it weve gained some altitude and come across a beautiful naturally formed pool that is filled by a small stream.

The crystal clear body of water encased in the white smoothed rock provides an opportunity to replenish our water supply. For Dan the find is too difficult to resist as he strips down and jumps in to cool off in the near freezing water. A few photos are taken of this picturesque and pristine landscape, pool in forefront and meandering river glimmering in the sunlight below. Ten minutes from the pool we unexpectedly come to the Reintalanger Hut. We check the time and decide there's no time to stop and we persevere on to the next hut, a sign-posted two and a half hours away. Shortly after the hut we realise this leisurely stroll has come to an end. Weve had it easy for these first 15 odd kilometres, and now its time to gain some real altitude. A final section over a flat meadow takes us up to what Ive been dreading: the hard push up. By now we have steep, high valley walls not only on either side of us, but also up ahead of us. We can make out the steep, intimidating rocky switch backs which were heading towards, and no sign of an end to this misery.

Progress up the steep rocky switch backs is slow. Respite from the high sun is non-existent, its hot and were going through a lot of water. The journey is long and tedious, and altitude is gaining steeply. In front of us we can only see the rocky route, but behind us lies the amazing view of the valley through which we've passed. After what seems like forever in the blasting sun, surprisingly we come to a small pipe emerging from the rock offering ice cool water that's running into a wooden trough. I bend over and dunk my entire head in to cool of, and take a seat next to a German couple with a map; they offer me a biscuit and inform me that its only 45 minutes or so till the next hut. Cooled off we continue along the rocky ill-defined route, keeping our eyes open for red painted markers every few metres signalling the best way to proceed. Finally a building begins to come into view - first the roof then walls, followed by people on the veranda. We've made it to the Knorr Hut.

Its mentally rewarding to finally to pass some form of marker. Here we sit, order large colas and open up our sandwiches, enjoying a rest for 30 minutes. As my eyes close I can feel my body insisting its nap time but I know that's not really an option for us. Its incredibly hard to set off again, but essential. We've made good time but depending on whats ahead of us, this could easily be reversed. By now most of the vegetation is far below us; were surrounded by a world of greys, steep valley walls either side - this place seems remarkably barren. For now at least it seems that we've left the steepest section behind, less switchbacks and a more gradual route leads us slowly higher. Its necessary to cross patches of snow as we make our way to the Zugspitzplatt, the plateau below the summit, which in the winter is popular with skiers. Its eerily silent en route until the ringing of bells from sheep and goats meets our ear drums. There are hundreds from the flock basking in the sun, stubbornly not willing to move out of a hikers way.

Almost two hours from the last hut we passed were coming up to a horse-shoe ridged wall which towers above us from all directions (except from where we've come). In the distance we see buildings and a relatively large number of people crisscrossing the plateau in all directions; the isolation we've felt until now dissipates. High above I can make out the summit building, our goal, though at this moment I'm not entirely sure how the route will lead us up there. Within about 45 minutes we come to a junction in our route. Left lead to a cable car which could take us up to the summit in 5 minutes; right, we climb. We've been at it for over 8 hours. I'm exhausted, soaked with sweat and almost mentally defeated. Right now its so easy to cheat, so tempting to get the cable car up to the summit and for a moment I feel my body stepping in the direction with the cable car station and ski hub, but we've come this far and eventually I make my way along the track which will take us to the summit. The climb is along an incredibly steep and loose scree slope and more dreaded switch backs, the rocks dry and dusty and with every slip the unleashed dust blows in my face. Height is gained and below us we see the hustle and bustle of the plateau.

Though not immediately obvious, if you know where to look you'll see the Schneefernerkopf glacier which lies on the north back ridge wall of the plateau. The scree is climbed to get to the solid rocky ridge section. While I'm delighted with the prospect of solid footing, its pretty exposed and via feratta, the iron rope, is used. I take five, witness a few climbers attach their harness on to the iron rope, take a gulp of water and move on towards the final ridge section (no harness). Its not long before I ease into a stride, constantly running my hand along the iron rope in case I begin to feel my feet give way. For the first time in hours I have a sense of making real progress. The iron rope is a great confidence booster, perhaps even providing a false sense of security, as I'm not sure if after all these hours my reaction time would be adequate should I begin to fall. Even if it were, strength would probably fail me at this point. There are a few sections where metal spikes in the rock must be crossed but these are straightforward and easily negotiated if you've a head for heights.

The via ferrata zig-zags up to the exposed ridge, which marks the border between Austria and Germany with a white demarcation post every few metres. The views are breath-taking here, and for the first time we can see the lands beyond the mountains, past the valley and ridge walls which confined our view until now. The final 20 minutes on the ridge are spectacular, but still our exhaustion takes its toll, and the summit buildings become larger as we approach. I conclude that with the right conditions and the right footwear you'll be fine on this section. Walking along the ridge is exhilarating, its not as narrow as Id imagined and at times I even let my hand go from the iron rope. After a little over 10 hours I finally set foot on the first step which takes me up to a complex build atop this mighty mountain. The summit buildings are a real feat of engineering.

Together they almost resemble a villains lair from a Bond film. Restaurants, bars, shops, even accommodation in the form of the Mnchner Haus hut are all available here. Much of the exteriors are viewing platforms, and wow what a view they offer. The surrounding peaks and ridges are spectacular; Lake Eibsee is stunningly beautiful in its deep blue glory. Its just a little past 3.30pm and we can relax with a drink among the crowds and toast our achievement until Dan actually notes we've not quite got the peak. We slowly set off again, for the last time. Its about 5 minutes away and involves a brief descent from the viewing platform and a short climb back up a neighbouring peak, aided with an iron ladder and rope here Germany's highest point is marked with a tall golden cross, the atmosphere slighted marred by the traffic jam of people trying to get a symbolic touch.

The views, however, remain undeniable. This gruelling yet amazing trek up the Zugspitze has taken us a little over 10 hours from the town of Garmisch. We've made it in time to get our cable car down though due to high volumes of visitors apparently well not be getting the 10-minute cable car down. Instead the attendant explains that we need to take the other cable car down to the plateau where wed come from, where we can board an underground cogwheel train that will take us the rest of the way.

The train takes an uncomfortable hour but were thankful for some brief shut eye before we make it back to Garmisch. www.doinitonline.com More info Hostel 2961: www.hostel2962-garmisch.com Information regarding the huts: www.davplus.de/huetten Zugspitze website: www.zugspitze.de"

Explorer of the Month: Victor Boyarsky

Ever wanted to know how to become an explorer? Or how your contemporaries do all the things they do (and get away with it)?

Each month Explorers Connect interviews one of its members to find out everything you need to know. This month if you've ever been to the pole via the Barneo ice base at 89 degrees north you may well recognise the modesty and smiles of the man who runs it: VICTOR BOYARSKY

How did you become an explorer?

I am just a lucky man whose dreams about active and adventurous life were magically fulfilled. In my youth I dreamed to became or sailor as my father was, or a polar man (huge impact of Jack London), and after graduating in 1973 I got just only one place available at the Arctic and Antarctic Research Institute and the same year went to Antarctica. Then for nearly 15 years I worked as a scientist studying ice and snow with remote sounding systems, taking part in four Antarctic and six Arctic scientific expeditions. 1987 became a very special year for my polar career I was chosen as a Soviet member of the International Transantarctica Expedition.

Still guessing why?

There were many scientists in our Institute who could have taken this place, but I was lucky again. Maybe one of the reasons was that at that time (1987) I didnt know any words in English which meant I could definitely keep all Soviet secrets hidden deep inside even being in the team with men representing the USA, UK, France, Japan and China! It was a great time with our incredible dogs and on skies we crossed Greenland in 1988 from South to North (nearly 2000 km in 64 days), in 1989-1990 we crossed the whole Antarctic continent on longest possible way 6500 km with dogs and on skis. It took us 221 days to do that and we became the second (and last) dog-sled expedition after Amundsen to reach the South Pole with dogs. In 1991-1993 I took part in several expeditions in Canadian Arctic training for Transarctic expedition, which happened in 1995 (Siberian coast- Ellesmere Island). Since 1997 up to now I am running a commercial project, organizing skiing expeditions to the North Pole.

Why do you do it?

This is type of life I like combination science and adventure, possibility to share your own feelings with those who hit this snowy road for first time in their life. What scares you the most? Not being able to continue such a way of living before getting tired. What is your greatest moment so far? Approaching the finish line after 6500 km of skiing across Antarctica.

What's the most dangerous situation you've ever been in?

September 1st 1976 is considered to be my second Birthday - on that day I survived after getting lost in heavy blizzard in Antarctica.

What makes you smile?

All besides things making me angry.

What are the biggest obstacles to expedition success?

Serious illness, or bad injury, in other words Lack of Luck!

What's the worst injury you've ever had?

The worst definitely will be one which prevents me from taken part in the expedition.

What's the greatest thing about succeeding?

Motivation, belief and optimism.

What's the meaning of your life?

Living in the way which can make happy not only you but someone else.

How can I do what you do?

Everyone has his own Pole.

What's your nickname?

Vittorio.

How do you balance the adventurous life with your home life?

It is greatest dis-balance in my whole life.

What's the one thing you do better than anyone else you know?

Writing poems.

What one thing couldn't you live without on expedition?

Fuel.

What is the best advice you've been given in your career?

Dont try to be excellent, just be good!

Is there anything left to explore?

Of course. Just look around and you definitely will find something to explore.

Why does the modern world need explorers?

They give to others ideas how to live another way and show on their own example that if one really dreams about something, he for sure will be able to make it happen.

If you could only do one more expedition what would it be and why?

I would go to Nepal, because I never have been there and because the mountains for me are different dimension of the space.

What's your life time ambition?

Just not getting worse as person while getting elder.

How can readers learn more about you?

They can visit the site of Arctic and Antarctic Museum at : www.polarmuseum.ru and order my books (in Russian). Or you could visit the North Pole as a scientist or adventurer via his company www.norpolex.com Victor Boyarksy was interviewed and edited by Frank Coles, a writer and broadcaster with a taste for adventure.

You can find out more about him by reading his professional profile on Explorers Connect or at www.frankcoles.com. North Pole photos also by Frank Coles. All rights reserved."