Explorers Connect

F.E.A.R - False Evidence Appearing Real?

OtherBelinda KirkComment

 

"F.E.A.R - False Evidence Appearing Real? Fear can be debilitating in the outdoors and fear can be debilitating in life. For sure it can be. It can stop you from trying something that you may think is beyond your capabilities. It is all too easy to put up barriers and to justify inaction based on the what ifs.

When we do this, when we listen to our fears and decide not to take a risk we close off the potential to achieve great things. If we only felt the fear and did it anyway, who knows what rewards would await us. But fear has its place too. Fear can also be extremely beneficial. It can keep us safe and in some situations, alive. It can be the primary motivating factor behind that all important decision to turn back. In this way, fear can be the sole mechanism that delivers us to the pub at the end of a day so that we can live to experience another day in the outdoors. So how do we separate the two?

How do we identify whether the adrenaline in our veins is telling us to just do it, or whether it is pushing our lives towards a rather messy and/or premature conclusion? Im not sure there is a definitive answer. I can only speculate that unhealthy fears are the ones that hold us back, and healthy fears must be those that preserve our existence on this planet. Being able to identify whether your quickened heart rate is pushing you onwards or telling you that it is time to retreat can sometimes be more important than our ability to navigate or our choice of appropriate clothing or gear. Quite frankly it is the skill that can separate those who enjoy a long and rewarding career in the outdoors from those who are, well, brown bread. My own relationship with fear is an interesting one. Just over a year and a half ago I was in a place where everything was upside down.

I was having panic attacks about things I wasnt even remotely scared of. Bizarrely, it was also at this time that I started to actually do things that other people would consider paralysingly petrifying. Stuff like rock climbing and mountaineering. It was quite frankly laughable that back then the concept of bumping into my ex in the supermarket would induce more feelings of terror than putting myself into a potential life or death situation on a rockface. Like I said, it was a confusing time. When I look back now it all makes perfect sense to me. The utter simplicity of being in the mountains overrode any fears that may have taken hold. The purity of the air, the awesome power of nature, and the friendships formed all combined to restore in me my sense of self and quietened my noisy head.

Here I was neither in control nor out of control it was a game of calculated risk. If I listened to the mountain, weighed up the options, focused, breathed appropriately, and looked only a few moves ahead, then I would succeed. It became a case of putting one foot in front of the other and in so doing it was suddenly eminently possible to reach the top of a Munro on ski in a total whiteout, to traverse the ridges of An Teallach in thick fog, and to succeed on a 6a route having only ever climbed twice previously. It was this adoption of the one foot in front of the other approach, together with a point blank refusal to submit to the irrational fears that got me past chaos and self-doubt, to the top, to fresh air, to calm, to the future. So where does this leave us with fear?

Well I guess the point Im trying to make is that where there is real risk there should be fear. And while you can never have zero risk in wild places you can minimise the risks by taking things one step at a time, immersing yourself in the moment, and enjoying the journey. And if you adopt this outlook on the mountain and in your every day life, then there is nothing to be afraid of. Sophie Nicholson Adventure Sports/Travel Journalist living in the French Alps "

Global Adventure News 28 June 2012

CommunityBelinda KirkComment

American paddlers complete 52 mile 24 hour marathon SUP challenge. Watermen Bill Whiddon and Thaddeus Foote, have completed the first ever attempt to stand-up paddle (SUP) across the Gulf Stream, from Bimini, Bahamas to Miami, to raise awareness of the impacts of plastics in the ocean.

The Bimini-Miami Blue Water Challenge was a gruelling 24 hour adventure taking the paddle boarders 48 miles across the deep blue waters of the powerful Gulfstream current armed with only a board, a paddle, and their wits.

The intrepid paddle boarders endured one the earths most powerful oceanic currents, exposure to shifting weather conditions, extreme isolation, and all the risks of open ocean navigation in order to successfully reach their destination. The paddlers arrived at South Beach Miami on the 15th of June to be welcomed at a party thrown in their honour by The Surfrider Foundation. By completing this journey, Whiddon and Foote hope to raise awareness of the impacts that discarded plastics are having on the worlds marine environments. The Surfrider Foundation Miami Chapter is an official partner of the crossing and is fighting the proliferation of marine plastics through its Rise Above Plastics (R.A.P.) campaign. R.A.P. is aimed at increasing the rate of plastic recycling and reducing the release of waste into the oceans. To take action, visit http://florida.surfrider.org/campaigns/flrapRiver.

Gambia 2012 Expedition 1000km. Experienced West Africa travellers, husband and wife team Jason Florio, and, photography producer, Helen Jones-Florio will attempt to make the first recorded source to sea expedition of the entire length of the River Gambia: one of the last remaining, large, free-flowing rivers in Africa, there has been talk for a number of years of damming the river, so they want to document the communities and environment before this happens. Travelling by canoe and foot through the homelands of over seven different tribes, their journey will begin at the source of the river, where it trickles out of the Fouta Djallon highlands of Guinea, on into hippo-abundant Niokolo Koba National Park, Senegal, and finally into The Republic of the Gambia following the same course as the early gold and slave traders had done centuries ago to the 10km wide mouth of the river, where it opens into the Atlantic Ocean after over a 1000km journey. Jason, Helen, and their team, will collect visual, written and audio stories documenting the lives and cultures of the indigenous people, who live and work along the course of the River Gambia. Using traditional protocol, relevant to each country, they will approach village chiefs to ask permission to stay in their villages. Staying with the local people will be an integral part of the journey, in order for them to understand and document the cultures and traditions of the numerous tribes they will encounter. They will travel with two local Gambian river men for the entire journey, along with hiring local guides in Guinea and Senegal thus making it a diverse and international team. http://rivergambiaexpedition2012.wordpress.com.

Louis Philippe Loncke completed his epic crossing of Poland. This human powered adventure on foot, packraft and kayak between the highest summit of Poland (Mount Rysy, 2499m) to the Baltic sea began in May 2012. The journey started with Louis climbing Mount Rysy, then hiking North-west across the Tatras mountains to Mt Barania Gra (1220m), find the source of the Vistula (the longest river of Poland) and follow it to the sea. During the 4-5 weeks of the expedition Louis also visited cultural places and famous cities along the way.The trip was completed successfully on the 3rd of June after 28 days and 1200 kilometers.By completing the trip Louis hopes to inspire preservation of the water bodies and wildlife of the country.http://www.polandtrek.com.

Ripley Davenport, FRGS, dedicated explorer adventurer writer for Explorers Connect is to attempt a 150 mile crossing of Death Valley.Death Valley is a desert valley located in Eastern California. Situated within the Mojave Desert, it features the lowest, driest, and hottest locations in North America. It has an area of about 3,000 square miles (7,800 sq km) and runs from the north to the south.The intention is to be completely self sufficient and entirely on foot throughout the arduous 150 mile route from North to South through the Valley itself by man-hauling a specially fabricated wheeled desert trailer, which will carry minimal water and provisions weighing approximately 200kg across sand dunes, jagged mountains, salt-pans, washes and canyons.The Valley itself is a narrow basin located 282 feet below sea level and bounded on all sides by mountains which generate the notorious blistering temperatures.It is intended to use, but not depend on, a recycling system that will purify urine.http://www.ripleydavenport.com/deathvalley.html

Legless man from Canada climbs Kilimanjaro on his hands - Spencer West, 31 from Toronto, Canada has succeeded in crawling on his hands to the 19,341ft high summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro. The amazing feat was completed on Tuesday the 19th of June. He trained for a year to scale the tallest peak in Africa without legs and set off on June 12 with best friends David Johnson and Alex Meers. The trek to the top took seven days, hiking through Tanzania's jungles, snowfields and deserts - and Mr West was forced to make 80 per cent of the journey on his hands, only hopping in a custom-made wheelchair when the terrain allowed. http://www.freethechildren.com/redefinepossible.

A team of five wounded American soldiers are attempting an ascent of Denali on June 10, 2012, a team of five wounded warriors began their challenge to summit Denali (Mt. McKinley) in Alaska, at 20,320 feet the highest mountain in North America and one of the coldest in the world. The team, calling themselves Warfighter Sports will test their limits, stamina and endurance while hoping to raise awareness of the abilities of Americas wounded servicemen and inspire others with disabilities.The Denali Challenge began on the 11th of June, they hope to complete their trip on Independence Day, July 4. Team Warfighter Sports includes two double leg amputees, two single above knee amputees and one with severe muscle damage in the legs. The team includes soldiers from two generations (the oldest is 64 and youngest is 29) and three wars, Vietnam, Iraq and Afghanistan.At present the team appear to be stranded at 14,000 feet due to severe weather however we are sure that their grit and determination will prevail and we will be following them at:http://www.crowdrise.com/wsdenalichallengeStories researched.

Runner's High Plus

OtherBelinda KirkComment

 

I tweeted a question earlier this week - If runner's have their high then what do we climbers have?

We couldn't have high even if it hadn't already been taken; it's just too bloody literal. I got a variety of replies including a four tweet epic from Mr NICAS himself, Iain McKenzie, but the basic gist of all the replies was that whatever we call that combination of superhuman and battered-to-hell set of emotions we experience after a session at the crag or after completing a grade-pushing pitch it's definitely a mix of elation at the achievement, the endorphin release from the strenuous exercise and the adrenaline shot of fear. My original question came from having completed my first overhanging lead during an evening at Craggy Island. It wasnt a tough grade (only a 4) and had it been on less steep ground I'd have danced up it, but, I find overhangs deeply intimidating.

They stir something visceral which just makes me want to run and hide. I've got to say it was bloody hard work, definitely not elegant and I made some glaring errors (including z clipping the second quickdraw and having to down climb to rectify) but I got to the top and I felt incredible. By the time Matt had lowered me off I was a quivering, sweaty mess. My legs and arms turned to jelly by the adrenaline and lactic, my mind singing from the endorphins and I was on top of the world. What I was feeling was akin to the runner's high but the extra loading of fear turned it into something far more powerful. It started me thinking of the concept of the sublime as described by Robert Macfarlane in his excellent Mountains of the Mind. This concept of sublime is not the modern use of the word so beloved of Loral and the like where Cheryl Kerl minces about telling us her hair feels canny sublime, pet This is the Sublime where you are elevated closer to your respective deity by proximity to the force of nature, the search for this Sublime is the force that drove respectable Victorians to swoon at the sight of a glacier and to haul cases of claret to the summit of Mont Blanc to quaff merrily in sight of their god whilst their toes (and servants) succumbed to frostbite.

To my mind this is what we Climbers are experiencing, this Runner's High Plus we attain, is actually a little bit of The Sublime. We know now, in the 21st Century, that this feeling is just the effect of a few molecules of hormone on our bodies and minds, but to reduce this awesome feeling to mere science doesn't, I'm afraid, do it justice so I'm sticking with The Sublime and I intend to keep grabbing little bits of it whenever I can.

This article was originally published on my blog -http://notevenbleeding.blogspot.co.uk/ but I've placed it on here in response to Glen Downton's article examining why we want to travel.

Jungle Equipment

OtherBelinda KirkComment

 

Hot, wet, humid and full of bugs; the jungle requires some specialist kit and a daily routine that takes a bit of getting used to. In this article I will cover the clothing and equipment you will need before venturing into the trees. What I hope to do is to give you some guidelines to help you come up with your own jungle kit.

Jungle routine

The general routine for working and travelling in the jungle is to only take two sets of clothing, a wet set and a dry set. During the day I wear my wet set, all day, every day. This will get wet, from sweat and or rain and will generally stay wet for the duration of the trip. When I have set up camp in the evening and all the camp chores have been done, I wash myself and my wet set in a stream to remove any salt, which will cause irritation if allowed to build up in the clothing weave. I then hang my wet set on a line under my tarp, dry and powder my feet and change into my dry set. It is very important that you make sure you keep this set dry at all times, as having two wet sets is no fun! In the morning I pack away my dry set in a small dry bag and then put that inside my main dry bag. Its then time to put on my wet set, which will be cold and horrible, I don't think anyone gets used to this! However after five minutes its like you have never been out of them and its time for another exciting day in the jungle.

Clothing

Clothes need to be tough to survive the constant wet conditions, the spiny wait-a-while vines and also protect you from biting insects. I generally choose natural materials over synthetics as I find cotton does not pick up body odours as quickly, although it does take a bit longer to dry.

Clothing is a very personal thing and what works for me may not work for you. Wet Kit Underwear I prefer to wear Lycra running shorts to reduce rubbing caused by wet trousers on your inner thigh. Some people wear swimming shorts and some wear nothing at all - like I said, its a very personal thing!

Trousers

British Army lightweights or cotton cargo trousers are the best option. Keep them loose fitting to allow freedom of movement and also allow wait-a-while to catch fabric rather than skin. Having a few pockets enables you to keep important items on you at all times. I tuck them into the tops of my jungle boots to stop leeches getting in. Shirt I prefer to wear a long sleeve shirt, which allows me to have the sleeves up during the day then roll them if the mosquitoes are a problem. The 5.11 Tactical range make a very good cotton shirt that is tough enough to stand up to the rigours of jungle travel. It has good chest pockets, which can carry a lot of gear and a good vent at the back to help keep you cool. As with trousers it is best to keep your shirt baggy and tucked in. Socks I go for a good pair of thick high percentage wool hiking socks without seams on the heels, as this reduces blisters on pressure points. Wool does not start to smell as quickly as synthetic socks. Some people prefer to wear one thin pair of socks under the thick pair to reduce friction, but I find in the jungle my feet get too hot with both pairs on. It is important to clean your socks each evening, to remove sand build-up, which can lead to very painful feet.

Boots

There is no point trying to keep your feet dry in the jungle, it just will not happen! I have seen people feet fall apart in waterproof boots, as once in, the water cant get out. It is a better bet to accept wet feet and choose boots with this in mind. I wear US Military jungle boots with a good chunky Panama sole, draining eyelets and a canvas upper. The ones by Altama are good. Jungle terrain can be very muddy and slippery and normal hiking boot soles cant get enough grip. The Panama sole allows good grip and it also pushes the mud out of the sides to keep the tread clear. The two eyelets allow the boot to quickly drain any water after submersion during say, a river crossing. The canvas uppers also aid the removal of water, as well as help ventilation. Any foam or padding in the boots will just hold water and make them very heavy. Belt Avoid leather, as it soon turns mouldy in the damp conditions. I use an old roof rack strap! Hat I am not keen on wide-brimmed hats under the canopy as I find they restrict my vision too much. I always take a baseball cap but only ever use it if I am in the sun, for example on a HLS (Helicopter Landing Site) or travelling by river. Poncho I carry a US poncho that packs up nice and small and weighs very little. It allows plenty of air to circulate so you dont become sweaty, unlike in waterproof jackets. I only really use this when it has been raining for a long time. A short downpour is more refreshing than anything else!

Dry Kit Shorts

I carry a pair of cotton cargo shorts to wear in the evening. They pack down small and still have pockets to hold useful items such as a head torch.

T-shirt

A cotton T-shirt is all thats needed in the evening. If mosquitoes are a problem I just apply mosquito repellent. Crocs It is nice to powder your feet and give them a chance to air and dry out in the evening. However some people prefer to take trainers or lightweight converse shoes as they offer more protection.

Equipment

You need very little equipment in the jungle, but what you do choose to take with you is very important. Rucksack An external frame pack has an advantage in the jungle as it increases air flow and therefore reduces the risk of getting a sweat rash on your back. Having external pockets means you can easily access commonly used items such as your brew kit or first aid kit, without having to go into the main compartment. Anything you want to stay dry needs to be put into dry bags as no rucksack is 100% waterproof. Depending on the length of your trip a 50-80ltr rucksack should be big enough. Remember the bigger your rucksack the more you end up taking!

Dry Bag

I find dry bags made by Ortelib to be the toughest. I prefer to put things into lots of little bags instead of just one large one in case it gets punctured. Make sure you label the outside of each bag so you can tell whats inside at a glance. Shelter There is no better shelter for use in the jungle than the tarp and hammock; it was designed for use in this warm wet environment.

Skiing across Scandinavia, diary extract from a 122 day expedition

Trip ReportBelinda KirkComment

Sweden and Finland Monday, March 17th, 2008. Latitude: 65.74811.

I have crossed the border into Sweden. After setting out from Hattfjelldal, I was able to follow some snow scooter tracks. Finding a snow scooter track is very good. If you are trail-breaking through deep powder and you move onto a snow scooter track, it can double your speed and reduce the effort expenditure.

It was still exhausting skiing and through thickly falling snow which reduced visibility, as the day went on this improved. At midday, quite unexpectedly I came upon a church service being held up in the mountains, the padre had built an altar from blocks of snow and the congregation must have travelled to this place on snow scooters as there were over thirty parked around. I am not religious at all, and although there are many things that I dislike about religion and its institutions, I never fail to be moved by being in a place of worship (I would feel the same if I were to visit Lenins mausoleum) I think that for me it has to do with the fact that such ceremonies and beliefs bring hope to the lives of so many, or maybe some vestige of my faith still lingers - who knows. I sat on my pack away to one side, and listened to the singing and the liturgy, the voices were clear on the mountain air and although I couldnt understand the words, I enjoyed hearing them as I ate my lunch, it was a special moment. That night I found an open hut. It was owned by Sami reindeer herders, who used it seasonally and left it open for hikers and skiers during the rest of the year.

The Sami or Laplanders formed nomadic tribal groups, whose culture, and livelihood revolved around their herds of migratory reindeer. Today many of them have settled, and become culturally assimilated throughout northern Norway Sweden, Finland, and the Kola Peninsula of Russia. However a percentage still maintain their ancestors lifestyle, albeit using snowmobiles for transport rather than reindeer. When its really cold going for a crap is a traumatic experience, exposed flesh can freeze in minutes, and sometimes its preferable to crap into a plastic bag in your tent, rather than go outside and brave the elements. I slept well that night, with nothing to do after having fed myself, I was in my sleeping bag before nightfall and must have gotten at least 10 hours in it.

I had set my alarm for 05:00 but when it went I said sod it and hit snooze for another hour. In and around Hattfjelldal snowscooter ownership and use is permitted, unlike other areas of Norway where only park rangers and owners of isolated cabins and land are permitted to operate them. Across the border in Sweden it is a different matter; seemingly everyone has a snowmobile and their tracks criss-cross the mountains. Today brought glorious weather for the crossing into Sweden. I'm not sure exactly when the border was crossed, but at one point I went to check the map, and realised that I must be here. In honour of the event I sat on my pack to enjoy a fag and a bit of hot thermos tea with the view. The day is over now, and I am exhausted. Exhausted is a word whose meaning can be stretched; I've been shopping all day and Im exhausted, as opposed to the kind of exhaustion which precedes death. Now I am feeling something in between, my face feels hot from the wind burn and sun, all my limbs ache. When enjoyed from comfortable settings it can be quite a pleasant sensation.

A great Swedish guy I met out on the ski track has invited me to stay in his house tonight, an ex-military man himself, having seen U.N. service in the heavily mined Gaza Strip, he is full of admiration for what I am doing,. He gave me a hot meal almost as soon as I had sat down - any worries I had about being as warmly received in Sweden as I have been in Norway have evaporated. What luck I have had on this journey, and what amazing people I have met. Mar 17, 9:11 PM How do Royal Just got back from Norway Myself and seen a little ditty on you doing this in the back of the Globe Buster (Magazine for Royal Marines - Harry) and thought I would have a look. Its Hoofing what your doing mate and really interesting and humorous reading, I bet your getting to see some amazing sights.

Any way I will let you crack on Royal Keep Safe and if you cant keep safe, Keep warm. Gaz. Tuesday, March 18th, 2008 when I set off this morning it was -20, at this temperature the hairs in your nose freeze together and cause constant itchiness, when I was in Norway with the Marines two years ago I plucked all my nose hairs to prevent this annoyance, it got rid of the problem but Im not sure I would wish to do it again. At -20, if you dribble a bit of spit out of the corner of your mouth, then it freezes before it hits the ground. I have yet to be in weather so cold that your urine freezes before it hits the ground, sometimes I write my name in the snow. The weather improved and the sun came out by midday, warming the valley. When setting off in the mornings, it is necessary to start cold, that is; wearing just one or two layers, you are cold to begin with, but once the movement starts warming you up, you do not have to stop to take off layers. I typically wear a thermal top under a Gore-Tex jacket. Fingers and ears are painfully cold to begin with, but before long the blood starts pumping and the extremities are warmed up. Sometimes when the sun comes out it is necessary take off the jacket, gloves, and even the hat. If the sun is out then you have to wear sunglasses or goggles, as the glare from the sunlight reflecting off the snow can cause snow blindness. I reached Tarnaby in good time and located the Tarnaby Fjallhotel, where I had posted the next section of mapping. The girls at the hotel were curious to see who had finally come to collect the maps that they have been holding onto for these past months, and they are kindly letting me stay here for the night, free of charge. The view from here out across the frozen lake to the mountains is spectacular, and it is very pleasant to sit and, enjoy the scenery without having to ski over it. According to locals, I can expect to find snowscooter tracks along the entire length of the Kongsladen.

The Kongsladen is an ancient trail running from Tarnaby, right up to Abisko in the north of the country. Over 440 kilometres long, it is a high altitude route, which should allow rapid progress, and regain some of the time lost at the beginning of the journey. If my sources are correct, then for the next 440 km all I have to do is follow the tracks, a much more welcome prospect than the uncertainties of navigation, and the exertion of trail breaking. Tomorrow I head for Amarnas (say it ten times fast), fingers crossed there will be more snow scooter tracks to follow. Mar 18, 8:51 PM Good to hear you are being looked after again. The Swedes are coming up trumps. Will get on with your instructions ref maps tomorrow all the other projects. Have a good ski tomorrow hope the track is worn thru love Dad This was a reference to the maps for the latter sections of the journey, not knowing whether I would make it this far, my father had not yet posted them on to the destination at which I would be able to collect them. Mar 18, 9:26 PM Were so glad the Swedes are as hospitable as the Norwegians and the kindness youve received from everyone must make you feel its worthwhile carrying on, despite the hardships. The freezing cold must be very painful, but its good to hear that your circulation is good and you warm up quickly. The church service you witnessed must be a rare experience not often seen. A friend told me today that she tried to donate to your fund and could not - is there a problem with other people trying to do the same? Thursday, March 20th, 2008 Harry set off early in the morning. We spoke as he had broken out above the tree line. The weather was fine he hoped for it to continue as the snow was good he could hear the sound of snowmobiles some way away, which he surmised he would have left reasonable tracks to follow.

He is now following the Kongsladen route from Tarnaby to Amarnas, which he expects will take him three days. He will be up in the wilderness doubts there will be a chance for him to communicate as the satellite coverage is sometimes dodgy in the mountains. He should get a signal in Amarnas will communicate with us then. My father makes several contributions to the diary from here onwards; this was necessitated by the fact that as I crossed the far northern latitudes it became harder to acquire a satellite signal, due to the approach of the satellite horizon. Mar 20, 11:05 PM Well Harry hope you get this when you surface from your black (white) hole in the mountains. Just wanted to let you know that our coffee morning carried on making money for MAG and is now up to the grand sum of 360! Your story is incredible and we enjoy all the comments from the folk that are following you. Their musings are every bit as interesting as yours! (No disrespect!) This has been written by someone who hates the cold and has never even tried skiing!

So can give you no practical advice whatsoever, just sit here, reading, in awe. So keep on going with the love of everyone who has read your diary. All the best... Mar 21, 3:24 AM Harry, I have been following your daily blogs and keeping my fingers crossed for you to make the goal with no injuries. Both Dawn and I are tremendously proud of you, and I have 2 of my former U.S. Army Special Forces mates following your moves on a weekly basis. Your courage and your stamina can never be questioned, Ill attest to that as every person who follows your adventures must agree. Please know that I view you as a true man among a select group of World Class men that have had the opportunity to test themselves against the solitude, the mental and physical anguish that you have and will continue to endure on your quest. I salute you, Sir. All our best wishes and love, John Saturday, March 22nd, 2008 There is a James Bond movie with roger Moore (that name always makes me laugh, go on, say it with a straight face - I dare you) I forget what it was called.

Anyway, it begins with Bond having just shagged some gorgeous blond in a cabin high in the mountains, and leaving her wide eyed with the words Im sorry my dear but England needs me then he skis off with baddies on snow scooters chasing him, skis over a cliff, deploys a union jack parachute, lands safely, gets chased by more baddies in snowmobiles and helicopters, defeats them with a combination of witty one liners and good facial bone structure, then escapes in a speedboat disguised as a mini iceberg and sails into the arctic sunset with yet another gorgeous blond. Thats more or less how the last few days have been for me. I would like for that to be true... but Im afraid its not. James Bond would not lose control on a slope, and somersault downhill in a tangle of skis and sticks, breaking his nose, and spraining his wrist in the process, and if he unexpectedly went over a drop off, he would have something better to say than ohh shiiit! The last three days have been amongst the most amazing of the trip so far, the sun has been out every day, and the mountain scenery has been spectacular. Much of the time has been spent above the tree line, skiing across postcard scenery along the snow scooter tracks which abound in the Swedish mountains, but that is not to say that the weather has been ideal throughout. Every morning is bitterly cold, most days have begun with light snow, and if it is windy I have had to wear my face mask to prevent frostbite. The first day I headed north, at around 14:00 I had a major wipe out on a downhill section, I came to rest shaken but not stirred almost at the doorstep of a mountain cabin, and decided to call it a day. The hut keeper gave me a beer which went some way to making up for the broken nose. The next day ended at 16:00 arriving at another cabin, and on the third I only had to do 22 km to come down in to Amarnas, where I planned to spend a rest day.

It being the Easter weekend and all the hotels fully booked, I am sleeping on the floor of a hotel gym. As I was skiing down into Amarnas some Swedes who had witnessed my latest ski crash, invited me to dinner with them. It was an excellent meal after which two guitars were brought out, and they all sang songs. Some of them sang very well and the guitar playing was first class, it made me wish that I was musical in some way, it must be a great thing to be able to make music which can uplift, or conjure emotions from other people. This trip was supposed to be about suffering and hardship in the face of adversity - one man, fighting against the elements, in a lone quest against the odds e.t.c. Instead it has been a case of - one man, graciously accepting hospitality, on a quest to reach the cape, in the face of overwhelming kindness. I expected this journey to be a lot tougher, instead it seems that providence, or whatever star guides my fate, keeps contriving for me to run into some of the most generous people I have had the good fortune to meet, to all of whom I am very grateful. I can only hope that my luck holds. Hi Ya I just read you made a trip through Trnaby. Shame we missed you. Safe Travels. And thanks for the interesting reading. Matt P.S. You were very lucky with the mild weather of -20 in Trnaby. Its Usually -30/35! Sunday, March 23rd, 2008 When I got up this morning, or more precisely, when I didnt get up this morning. I decided that since this was probably the last comfortable place I would get the chance to have a day off, on this journey, that I may as well have two days here, rather than one. So I languished in bed as long as I could, and had a leisurely breakfast. Later on I learned that the outside temperature had been -35. While still back in UK, I had decided that if the temp was less than -30 I wouldn't move, below this temp military training is discontinued, as beyond this point the risk of cold weather injury increases disproportionately.

So it was just as well that I was overcome by laziness when I was, otherwise I would have ventured out into the mountains where the altitude and wind would have brought the temperature still lower. Tomorrow the weather forecast predicts that it will be -24, and up in the mountains it will undoubtedly be cooler still. There will be no shelter for the next section of the journey; there was an emergency cabin along the route I am planning to take but it was burned down last year. Below -30 strange things start to happen; zips fall apart because the teeth have shrunk in the cold, metals can shatter as they become brittle, and moisture on the breath instantly condenses to freeze on the nearest surface, causing the area around the mouth to become covered in hoarfrost. Since I am not very keen on finding out if I can survive a night in the open in temperatures below -30C, what I am going to try tomorrow, is to start at first light and try to cover the 60 km to the next possible place of shelter before nightfall. Mar 23, 7:53 PM Harry nice call sleeping in your trip is beginning to sound a touch hairy again - fantastic read good luck on your 60km dash mit broken nose Wednesday, March 26th, 2008 Latest message from Harry. He set out to do the 55 kilometres to Adolfstrom from Amarnas on the 24th March, starting early in cold temperatures of about -24C, initially hoping to do it in one shift. However, feeling exhaustion set in he sought emergency shelter for the night, before setting out again early on 25th March.

The temperature dropped down to below -30C during the night, but by the time he set out at 7am, it was around -24C. Had a good ski into Adolfstrom arriving about midday where he has found satisfactory shelter. The target for the 26th March is Jackvik about 27 kms away. The excellent weather seems to be holding firm for the time being. The shelter I found on the 24th was a private cabin. Coming down from a mountain just at the point when I was starting to get tired, I saw a couple of huts out in the snow by themselves. Skiing up to them to check if they were open I quickly realised that they belonged to someone, and were locked up, a quick search revealed the key. Now I was faced with a choice, technically I would be breaking in, but the alternative was to sleep outside in -40C, and I didnt much fancy it. So after spending the night there, I left a note on the table explaining what I had done and apologising, along with some money to cover the cost of the wood I had burnt to keep warm. Mar 26, 6:39 PM Hi Harry, It was nice meeting you in Amarns and good luck on the last part of your trip. Be careful with your nose! I am taking off for Inner Mongolia on Sunday. Best wishes, Gunnar from Arvidsjaur This was from the father of the family who invited me to dinner in Amarnas, a very kind soul. He also called ahead to a friend of his who ran the tourist station at Abisko - Harry Thursday, March 27th, 2008.

Latitude: 66.49070 Occasionally someone will ask me about what it was like in Afghanistan. Like many others, when faced with this situation, I usually reply that I didn't do anything worth talking about, or that I cant be bothered to talk about it, or change the subject. The truth is that I would like to talk about it, but through experience have learnt that this is a pointless exercise. In the past when I have tried to relate my experiences, I usually come to a point in the conversation where I look up at that person and think to myself, you haven't the faintest clue what I'm talking about. No one who hadn't been through that experience could have the least understanding of what it was to be there.

So it is with this; I'm writing it, and you are reading it. But unless you have done something very similar, you will never be able to understand what I am going through, or what it feels like to be alone in this great white wilderness. Some days are bad in ways which I cannot relate. Being lost and alone and far from help. Each day brings pain and exhaustion, I could end it now but it would mean a failure which would live with me forever - to continue means at least another month of this.

How to . . . promote your expedition

How-toBelinda KirkComment

There is a number of exciting expeditions out there so trying to spread the word about your endeavour through that jungle of adventures might be a real pain. If you don't have a sharp machete in the form of the contact details to a well known adventure magazine editor then maybe few of the following points will be of some help.